Morris Minor Owners Club

I got a desperate call from the welding shop today trying to get replacement panels to fit on my '68 trav. While they've done a great job with the sills, floors and spring hangers, it's the rear inner wheel arch and flange replacements that seem to be poor fits, and they're worried about stresses on the wood.

Anyone have experience making these fit? Generally, they seem too small, and I'm not sure how to bend/trim to make it work. I got mine from ESM and there was no differentiation as to model - are they the same size for all Minors?

These photos (the first three in the string are short videos showing a slow pan of the perimeter) should give folks a sense of the issues, but I'll also describe below: http://s959.photobucket.com/user/ReillyO/story/38673

We're using the assembled wood sides as guides. At minimum, it seems the arch flanges will need to be augmented to offer some metal to screw the wood arches to. This wouldn't be visible, and I don't think it would interfere with the installation of the outer wings, but that seems the least of the worries.

As you can see, the flanges don't reach all the way to the rear wood posts, and there is a concern about over-tensioning here (wood cracking, if not immediately, than perhaps when the car is bouncing along the road). It does not appear they can be bent rearward any further without impinging on the corner brackets. Is the wheel flange supposed to sit upon the bootwell floor surface, or up against its vertical rear lip?

Also, the inner wheel arches are currently braced across each other because apparently they were flaring outward at the tops, so the concern is that this too will press outward on the wood sides (particularly the joinery on the wood arches) once the bracing is removed.

Thanks in advance for any advice. It's really hard doing this in the states without a roadmap, and the last thing I want is to spoil the investment in the wood for $200 in sheet metal...

Apart from the bottom at the front that seems fine. The front part should finish vertical. Actually, the only problem will be the fitting of the plate on the bottom of the wood there, and it looks like it could easily be dressed to accommodate this. The gap along the edge is normal and increases towards the back as in your picture. this can all be sealed and will be covered by the rear wing. I will try and take some pictures of mine in these areas so you can see. I have not fitted the rear wings yet.

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... &start=255
http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... &start=285

I would not worry unduly about stresses in the wood. In order to get everything lined up on mine I had to put a lot of force on the wood, to the point that one of the joints opened slightly. I called Steve at Woodies and he told me it was quite normal and sent some glue and sawdust to fill the joint. The wood is very flexible and as yours has been used to set the wood the stresses will be very low. Once the wood is glued and screwed in place and all the panels glued and screwed there will not be any problem.

It is worth while at this stage is to make sure that the rear doors fit, although there is also a big opportunity for adjustment there too.

I agree generally with Neils post above ... I think your metal arch should be a little higher at the front and lower at the rear.

The rear facing flat edge of the wheelarch sits approximately level with the bottom of the timber. A small gap between the timber and the inner wheel arch at the very rear around 1/2" is quite normal and around 1/4" clearance over the arch which is filled with sealant.

Taupe

Thanks to you both for the quick replies. I also got a helpful email from Steve Foreman. Sounds like my guys are just being extra cautious, which is great. It's a relief to know we're not so far off. Cheers - Jason