Morris Minor Owners Club

well some progress has been made in removing the head everything undone .everything dripping in plus gas i have heated the head tapped the head got the head to move with the aid of a crow bar . i have removed the studs that are under the rocker cover , cant move the 5 on the otherside . i am wondering if getting some of those eyes that go on the rocker cover and hiring a engine hoist will do the trick . so frustrating got movement and cant lift off the head .

Being that the rocker shaft assembly is off all the valves will be closed. W/the spark plugs out, if you turn the engine over slowly w/the starting handle and find a piston that is coming up, you can then stuff a soft rope (preferably braided cotton) in the spark plug hole for that cylinder, leaving the end sticking out. Then turning the engine over by hand, either w/the starting handle or a wrench on the crank nut, you may be able to lift the cyl head that way.

As you have tried all the usual ways of releasing the head I would suggest that you remove the water pump, place a piece of wood under the front of the head give the wood a good hard knock with a lump hammer. That should loosen the head nicely but do not go to hard at it as you may end up bending the head studs. If you can get the head up high enough to place a thin piece of packing wood between the head and the block then use that piece of wood as a rocking point gradually working the head up the studs increasing the thickness of the packing wood as required. Keep soaking the studs in release oil as you work the head up the studs.
Best of luck

I hate to think what you did with the 'crow bar'......... You say it has moved...can you not now extract ANY of the 5 front studs? This is MOST unusual with an A series engine - sadly not uncommon on the likes of my TR7 engine!. As I suggested before - refit the inlet manifold and use it as a handle to wiggle and pull - and if that doesn't work - as Phil suggests - take the water pump off... I would NOT recommend using the rocker stud holes as lifting points - they are only 5/16" thread..... Don't worry - soak it with more release oil, and go back to it after watching the Boat Race and the GP this afternoon....

removed

What - the head? Or the post........ ??

The Post ! sorry to butt in on this thread.

rope trick and heat did the trick the rear stud and the middle stud really rusty i only used the crow bar in the holes where the mainfold goes and the theromstat housing is not inbetween the block and the head as its a exchange head i dont thik ive done any damage only the stat housing just got to reassemble .

those studs did not want to move so played it safe

Glad to hear that you have been successful

Well done - eventually!!