Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi Everyone,
just wanted to check before I start to check the timimg on 'Mable'
When doing static timing am I right in assuming that when the rotar arm is pointing towards No1 cyclinedr and its at the top of its stroke then that is TDC.

Also do I need to dis connect the vacuum pipe when doing the static timing

Cheers

Chris

That's pretty well correct. No need to disconnect vacuum pipe for static timing. just make sure that No 1 cylinder is approaching the top of its stroke on compression. Static is a very good starting point for most engines, but there's bound to be some comment shortly that you need to then advance the timing until the engine "just" pinks under load, then retard a fraction from there.

OK Cheers

Between 5 and 8 BTDC is a good static staring point

How many degrees are the graduation marks on the vacuum advance adjuster?

We have no idea where to set the 'static timing'...... As long as the engine is starting - and you have checked that the vacuum advance is connected - and actually working - then just gently twist the dizzy back and forth till you get the best/smoothest idle. Then road test the car to check it's NOT pinking when pulling hard up a slight hill in top gear. Ideally then - advance the dizzy a bit more until it DOES show some pinking, and then retard it again until it is 'not quite' pinking. As long as the idle is still good - you have done all you can reasonably do to set the timing for your engine and your fuel.

so what is the problem in using a timing light and adjusting to manufacturers recomendations and a gas analyser or colortune

Not everyone has/can afford a timing light etc. for the limited times you'd need them. I'd love to have my everyday car setup on a rolling road but....

For a Minor start with static to get it running and then play it by ear for pinking.

for anyone doing their own servicing less than £20 for a timing light is invaluable, if anyone near me needs the use they can come round and use mine

But a 'timing light' will only help you to set the timing to some random setting from 50 years ago...since then - our fuel has moved on significantly - so there is no point using the old figures. Just get the best idle - then adjust for 'not quite' pinking. Colour tune is a useless thing anyway - and like the exhaust gas analyser is for setting idling mixture - not so much for 'timing' . The SU carb comes with a handy 'lift pin' that helps you to set the idling mixture - but the idle mixture has only slight effect on the running mixture - which is what REALLY matters! Plug colour check is the best indication we have for that - without specialist equipment.......

wondered how long it would be before we got negative about trying to do things the right way

Hi Folks,

Tried setting static timing today, however it did'nt matter how much I adjusted the micro adjuster on the dizzy, the light did not light up.

The car is starting and seems to tick over fine but I'm wondering whats wrong with the light not lighting.
I did check the light was working OK as well
Cheers
Chris

i would go with what bmc says as long as you have got smoth idle and the car is pulling ok thats all that really matters

The RIGHT way is the 'best idle' and then 'not quite pinking' - doing it that way is the optimum you can do for your engine using today's fuel.... Ideally of course - since the 'best idle' and the 'not quite pinking' may not be at the same setting - then the advance stop inside the dizzy may need to be 'adjusted' (or changed for a different one) to give the best of both worlds. And of course - it is always important to check the vacuum advance is working as it should. Just setting the timing to a 50 year old setting, and hoping for the best - is certainly not 'the right way'....

I'm going through the same thing here with the car, I have just done an Accuspark conversion to the distributor, so it now has to be setup again.

I have got the car running, took it for a drive and it was missing and hesitating badly, turning the dizzy clockwise seems to improve things, so I presume turning the dizzy clockwise advances the timing, as the rotor is going counter clockwise ?.

If i keep turning clockwise the engine will falter and stall, if i turn back I start to get a smooth tickover.

Is the point I am looking for a starting point for the timing ?, where the engine just starts to tick over nicely from where it is faltering (too advanced).

Sorry to jump in on a thread but seemed no point in starting a new one with the same subject.

I say yes - but only tiny adjustments can make quite a difference. You MUST make sure it doesn't pink when accelerating in top gear..and if it seems to 'kickback' against the starter when doing a cold start - then it is too advanced... And yes - clockwise advances the timing.

Thanks for that, been along while since I have played with dizzys and timing, all my cars since 1987 have been efi, black box driven.

I think its ticking over too fast as wel so thats not helping me set it up, I have gotten a tacho to set that up, taken a step back and to to sort out this timing.

I know its acdemic but if I put a strobe on it where should I exoect it to be firing at tickover.

Geoff