Morris Minor Owners Club

The clutch pedal on my 1963 with 1098 engine is very slow to come back up can anyone give me an indication what that may be due to any diagrams pictures etc would be useful of where to look and what to do thanks

The pedal shaft - common to the brake pedal - will be needing oiling. Take up the little cover plate over the brake master cylinder to get access. But also just check that the return spring is present and correct - look under where the clutch arm disappears into the gearbox.

BMC is correct. Although if the pedal comes back to its original position then it is more likely to be the pedal shaft. In an ideal world it would have a grease nipple fitted!

Hi Alex , got the same problem with mine, have removed inspection panel several times to lubricate, it lasts a few weeks then needs doing again! Suspect as the experts here have suggested, that it is the pedal shaft needs replacing. I have found Plus Gas works better than WD 40

Of course it does - WD40 is NOT a release oil - or anything but a very temporary light lubricant..... When it's moving - dribble EP 80/90 over it all in the hope some will leak in to the rubbing parts.

Hi Gareth,
From experience with one of my cars its usually the clutch pedal shaft that rusts to the hole through the brake pedal rather than the clutch shaft becoming tight in the chassis leg holes. On my current rebuild - once I get the clutch pedal out - I want to see if I can fit a bronze\brass bush in the brake pedal and also a grease nipple. Should hopefully make it future proof!

I have just replace my clutch pedal and renewed the bushes in the brake pedal with 2 x COM104 from ESM see link below for diagram

http://www.morris-minor.co.uk/p309.htm

These bushes are also for the chassis leg where the clutch pedal is located.

Once you remove the cover there is a spacer between the left side of the chassis leg and the brake pedal. This should move fairly freely. If it stuck oil it and try and shift it with a pair of vice grips. I have known them to be seized onto the shaft and only free up when heated. Once freed up regular oiling should help keep it that way!

Thanks guys the spring was completely missing !

I guess we can all now figure out the solution to your problem ?
(Wear some safety goggles when stretching the new spring to fit. )
Roy hit the nail on the head with the first response !!

On the Forum we are convinced that : - apart from decades of Morris minor experience , he has X- ray vision that can operate sometimes hundreds of miles away from a stricken vehicle.The man is a legend in his own lifetime.Well done Roy.
Bob

No X ray vision I'm afraid - but I did complete 50 years of 'incident free' driving yesterday (and only two speeding tickets - both a long time ago, and 'competition' related)! And over the years - I have seen or experienced most of the problems that crop up on here......

I "restored" one many years ago but you forget where to look I guess I should get a manual, I admit my knowledge is fairly limited . The guys with experience are so handy it can sometimes save hours of head scratching

Just Google for a Morris Minor Workshop Manual - free downloads are out there....