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Jacking points
Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2004 11:31 am
by aingleson
Sorry to ask such basic questions, but I don't want to risk damage to my new car!
If I'm using a trolley jack, exactly where are the strong points at the front and rear of the car? And then having raised the end, where on the axle should the stands go, just behind the wheel or midway between wheel and differential?
Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2004 12:31 pm
by Cam
Always jack up with a piece of wood inbetween the jack and the car as it stops damage and slipping.
At the front, jack up on the chassis rails (the two long box sections that the lower suspension is bolted to). Jack up at the front of the rail and put the axle stand around where the lower suspension mounts to the chassis rail.
At the rear, jack up on the axle tube/diff housing/spring mounting plate (of you can). and place the axle stand on the axle tube as close to the wheel as you can without squashing any brake pipes.
Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2004 2:33 pm
by Pyoor_Kate
It's generally advisable to avoid actually jacking at the jacking point; unless you're really certain of the points' structural integrity; it tends to disintegrate....
Posted: Wed Nov 10, 2004 9:41 pm
by Multiphonikks
...and whatever you do, make sure you put a couple of spare tires undeneath the car in case the jacking point decides to disintegreate.
And of course, NEVER go under the can just on a jack supporting it...
thanks, all
Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 10:34 am
by aingleson
So if I need to raise the whole of the rear, say to paint the underside, do I need to jack up each corner individually and put a stand under it or is there a point in the middle where I can jack up the whole rear end?
Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 10:36 am
by Cam
You CAN jack the rear up on the bottom of the diff housing and then CAREFULLY put an axle stand under each axle tube as close as you can to the wheels (for stability). You can also do one at a time, but if I have to raise the entire rear end I jack up on the diff casing.
But make sure the car is on level ground, chock the front wheels, take the handbrake off and use a piece of wood in between the jack and the diff.
Posted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 10:59 am
by aingleson
Thanks a lot for the advice
Posted: Sun Nov 21, 2004 7:23 pm
by fweddy
If using a bottle jack or something with a small top on it to jack on the chassis rails, make sure you do use a piece of wood (or something to spread the load) Even with a trolly jack I always jack where the tiebar mounts to the chassis as its stronger.
The chassis is not solid so jacking in the middle of the beam buckles the bottom of the rail making it concave. The drain holes are in the middle of the rail and if that is pushed up the water can't drain out the holes so it sits along the edges - and rusts.