Deglazing cylinder bores

[fillpoke]

Firstly thanks to everyone who has answered my many questions so far. You are all a great help. To replace the block in my original engine ( rod through side!) I bought a 2nd hand 1098cc engine which had seized due to standing a long time. I've left it with diesel oil in the bores for a while and today I was successful at getting it to turn over. I've removed the pistons and the bores( which are standard) look remarkably good without even the slightest wear ridge at the top. I want to fit new piston rings and my question regards cylinder preparation. Do I deglaze or not? And if I do can I just use emery paper (what grade) revolving it as I move up and down the cylinder to get a sort of 45 degree hatch?

[bigjim]

glaze busting tool is the best thing for the job , not overly expensive, if you dont do it you might as well just refit the old rings because the new ones dont bed in properly , if you do it by hand you should use wd 40 or white spirit while scuffing the bores,,,should use same with busting tool too. dont use emery paper use 400 grit wet or dry paper or finer that way you cant damage bores easily

[bmcecosse]

400 grit is much too fine. You want 80 grit - the idea is to make light scores on the bores - which will hold a little oil! And yes - while a glaze busting tool in a leccy drill is nice - I have just wound the emery paper round my hand (easier on a 1275 I will admit...) and moved up and down the bores with a twisting motion - moving round as I go. The result is the correct 'cross hatch' pattern on the bores. I agree though that the old rings may still be fine - why not clean them up and check if they are free in the piston grooves - and still nice and 'springy' ?

[katy]

If you re-use the old rings, de-glaze then also, lightly, w/some emery cloth.

[les]

The deglazing tool is well worth buying, basically a flap disc. It will exert a more even/consistent pressure than by hand.

[M25VAN]

Anyone got a link to a picture for one? Is this the type that looks like a bottle brush?

[bigjim]

try this on e bay 121034779669

[M25VAN]

thanks bigjim, the bottle brush type don't seem readily available in the UK.

[philthehill]

What you need is a Sykes Pickavant cylinder honing set.
I have used these hones on the cylinder bores of all the engines I have rebuilt. Make sure that you clean the bores completely of any honing residue before assembly/fitting pistons.
As above - not expensive (£21.56) (reduced from £44.00) and they do make a proper job of it as well.
See link below:
http://www.automotive-toolzone.co.uk/to ... -89mm.html

[IslipMinor]

Phil,

Thanks for the link - just ordered one! No immediate need that I know of, but very useful to have if ever I do.

[les]

About to do the same until I added vat and £8 postage, total = half as much again! £21 looked good, actually £36.01p

[M25VAN]

Excellent. So with a quick bit of maths it should be possible to work out how fast to go up and down, for a known drill speed, to get close to 45deg pattern.

[les]

The company will do the maths for you-----------another 10 quid though!

[bmcecosse]

There's a difference between a 'hone' and a 'glazebuster'.......

[M25VAN]

Oh, what's the difference? I'm guessing the hone will potentially remove more material?

[bmcecosse]

The hone has the stone blocks - glazebuster has the beads on wires.

[M25VAN]

Hmm, a search for glazebuster seems to point to hones. I didn't find the bottlebrush type readily available. Am I searching for the wrong thing? Can anyone give a brief explanation of when you would use a hone as opposed to a glazebuster and vice versa.
Sorry to jump in on your thread fillpoke but hopefully these are questioned you might have wanted to ask as well.

[fillpoke]

No probs jumping on the thread - as you correctly say I'm interested in the answers too!

[philthehill]

See
http://www.brushresearch.com/flex-hone.php

UK distributer:-
Pacehigh Ltd
Unit 9, Alders Court
Watchmead
Welwyn Garden City
Hertfordshire
tel: 01707327788

The above has not always been around (1972 0n) and the hone has been in common use since at least the late 1960s (if not well before) when I started using one to break cylinder wall glaze; and as I have one of the Sykes Pickavant hones I will continue to use it for that purpose as well as honing cylinder bores after re-bore.
At the end of the day the hone and the de-glazing brush both give the same end result.
However you break the glaze care has to be taken to ensure that the bore remains parallel from top to bottom.
Whilst some engine tuners use special machines to give the right pattern of honing marks; with a bit of practice the correct pattern can be achieved.
See also
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=eng ... &FORM+IGRE
A picture tells a thousand words.

[bmcecosse]

The hone is really designed to take the bore out to a final size after boring - and to smooth any machine marks left over from the boring bar. I'm not sure if the stones are able to cut through a hard 'glaze' - but 'Phil' seems to find it ok. It really is easy enough with 80 grit either wrapped round your hand - or perhaps a piece of wood (maybe a rounders bat, something like that....??) if hand is too big to fit down the bore.