Where to start?!

[Sips]

During a fit of enthusiasm to tinker this morning I "explored" under the rear seat and boot of Mog.

In one section under the seat there was about 2 inches of standing water, sure this is coming through the rear window seals (2 door). Having had a prod around the floor itself is solid however it is somewhat "patchwork" with numerous repairs from over the years. This is the case all over the car including the chassis legs, see pics below.

I have been putting off getting stuck into the resto due to a lack of garage (we move in a month and will have one then) but on today's findings perhaps I should get started sooner rather than later.

From looking at the various feeds in the resto section I have been inspired to tackle this whereas I would have probably thrown the towel in before (first resto!) I am confident to give things a go myself and have welded cars in the past but am struggling to work out where I should start here really!

The pics of the floor are below and I would appreciate any advice here! When Charles Ware's cast an eye over it the advice was not to bother as I would spend so much time repairing the various bodges that have been done over the years, however I would love to restore Mog to her former glory so want to at least try!

[Sips]

hmm, photo upload issues!

[Sips]

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[DAVIDMCCULLOUGH]

The car must have had a long term term leak to have caused the need for all the welding and its still there after the welding! On my blue minor which had new floors and window rubbers and everything it still leaked a bit and I drilled a couple of extra drain holes under the back seat strengthening area to allow any water that does get in to at least have a path out again. Keep the seat, underfelt and carpets out a while and let it dry out and perhaps you can find the place were the water is getting in.

[bmcecosse]

Wares have a cheek! As above - dry it out and find the leaks. You MUST stop the leaks. The rusty metal must at least be rubbed/wire brushed away - and then the surfaces (if not penetrated) treated with rust killer and much paint -on both sides!! . Anything going in to holes - needs new metal welded in. I suggest you concentrate on the house move - and the garage - meantime. Just doing basic 'leak stopping' on an urgent basis.

[irmscher]

I agree bit of a cheek I know where I wouldn't be spending my money

[Trickydicky]

Looking at the last pic I would be looking at the front spring hanger mounting, it looks badly corroded around that area. Also take a look inside the rear seat cross member as that will hold water too.

[Sips]

Thanks for all the advice, I know the spring hangers have been replaced in the past (badly, the rear wheels don't line up!) so I am expecting to have to redo these. Should I remove them and then cut out all of these patches to weld in a complete panel or as long as the floor doesn't have any holes leave them?

[les]

Like it or not CW has a point if only to point out the probable expense of putting it all right.

[Sips]

I agree Les, they quoted about £8000 to redo the floor and chassis properly therefore not worth it.

People have obviously had difficult experiences in the past, I can only rate them highly for how helpful they have been so far. I haven't used them for any work though but I find them very pragmatic!

I am trying to work out how far to go really, I want a usable (and safe) car that is in good overall condition. Not going for concourse by any stretch!

[Dean]

I agree with previous posters. Dry out and concentrate on finding the leaks and get the house move sorted. clean back, treat and paint.

Firstly will it fail an MOT the way it is? Whether it will or not depends on the how you could tackle it.

You could make it a rolling resto as this will encourage you to put the car back together again. Once stripped right back, it could be years upon years before it's on the road again, less if you maintain enthusiasm.

We buy these cars to enjoy them, some enjoy the driving, some enjoy the resto, many both. Think which category you fall into before stripping it right down.

good luck, and there are many here to help if stuck.

[kennatt]

If I were you I would be taking the outer sill covers off and having a look inside the sill section as well,

[rogerowen]

The car must have had a long term term leak to have caused the need for all the welding and its still there after the welding! On my blue minor which had new floors and window rubbers and everything it still leaked a bit and I drilled a couple of extra drain holes under the back seat strengthening area to allow any water that does get in to at least have a path out again. Keep the seat, underfelt and carpets out a while and let it dry out and perhaps you can find the place were the water is getting in.

I agree with this. Mighty hard keeping water out of a Moggie in this country. Probably when they were new (nicely fitting seals and non-flexing shell), it might have been more water-proof. I am reminded of 1970's VW Beetles - with the windows closed it was difficult to shut the door - so sealed was that car, Indeed I think they were even able to float on water! Our Moggies are different, and have nice natural air circulating. Original lower sill panels have a cowell shaped water drain designed to let water drain out backwards but not allow water in frontwards, Some modern replacement panels dont have this feature.

Good luck - lots of derust and masses of paint (POR 15 or the like).