Morris Minor Owners Club

I'm having problems in removing the rear axle nut on my '51 MM to get the drum/hub off. The book says to jack up the car (and support), remove road wheel, then undo the nut.
This doesn't work as the there is nothing to stop the half-shaft from turning around with the nut (even in gear and the handbrake applied).
What is the correct way - loosen it with the road wheel still on and in contact with the ground?
Any advice gratefully received.

George.

Hi George

That's what I would do in your circumstances.

Do the same on tightening. Tighten up as far as possible when jacked up, then let some weight rest on the ground through the tyre, to tighten to correct torque. I have to say, I don't know what that is, off-hand!

Hi George, I would take out the split pin and try and loosened while the weights on the ground to give you some leverage. From memory they are left and right handed threads as well.

Hand brake on, in gear, chock wheels. Hub cap off, remove split pin. Fit correct size socket, may vary depending on BSF or UNF threads, and breaker bar. Add scaffold pole if necessary and heave, both sides are clockwise threads.
Jack up car, remove wheel and slacken brake adjusters and handbrake. Check that wheel is rotating and pull off drum, tapping flange with a hammer if necessary

Thanks for the replies. I'll give it another go when we get a dry spell - the MM is currently in the Polytunnel and I'll have to move it onto the tarmac drive to do the work.
George.

David & Mike - I've loosened the castellated nuts. Both were right-handed threads, unlike the front ones.
A 1" SAE socket fitted "just right"[frame][/frame]
and with the help of a piece of iron gas pipe (I just happened to have lying around), they released quite easily[frame][/frame]
Because the break-bar from the socket set was not a "snug" fit in the gas pipe, it did get bent a bit.
Excuse the quality of the pictures - it looks like my mobile phone camera is deteriorating (the rain had started and I didn't want to get out the proper digital camera).
Should have attacked this yesterday as the weather was a lot better than predicted - lost opportunity. I've put the hub caps back on and will attempt hub removal during the Xmas/New Year period.

Wishing all on the MM Register forum a Merry Christmas and a Very Moggy New Year.

George.

Hubs removed - slipped off very easlily
Offside[frame][/frame]
Nearside[frame][/frame]Note the NS shoes had been fitted incorrectly.
I've replaced both wheel cylinders, but could not fit the new springs as the "short" spring is far too robust and you cannot fit the hook part through the brake-shoe holes![frame][/frame]
The shiney ones are the new replacements, compared with the original ones.
I also noticed that the Near Side handbrake cable runs over the exhaust pipe and is fitted with a metal protection sleeve[frame][/frame]Is this normal?

Very different springs to those that were fitted, not sure which are correct though.
Try fitting the short spring to both shoes then lever the shoe over with a large screw driver or maybe a tyre lever.

The metal sleeve doesn't look right, it's just going to spread the heat along the cable.

New brake springs can be tough - but are important for good release. Try fitting the new springs to the shoes first (close together) - and then prise the shoes into place. Yes, that handbrake cable looks wrong, I'll have a look at my daughters car when she's home and see if I can see where it should run.

I can't actually fit the short springs into the holes in the brake shoes - the "hook" is too long (or the holes are too small).

Not had that problem before. They're not 'Willow' shoes are they?

gtt1951 wrote:I can't actually fit the short springs into the holes in the brake shoes - the "hook" is too long (or the holes are too small).

You are better off fitting the springs to the shoes by angleing them a little to get the springs into the shoe holes - then prying the shoes into position.

rogerowen wrote:

gtt1951 wrote:I can't actually fit the short springs into the holes in the brake shoes - the "hook" is too long (or the holes are too small).

You are better off fitting the springs to the shoes by angleing them a little to get the springs into the shoe holes - then prying the shoes into position.

Roger, I'm including a picture of the problem "hole" circled in yellow.[frame][/frame]
You can just about make out the leading end of the spring "bent". Unless I force it through with pliers, or smack it with a hammer, it will not go in of its own accord. Also, the spring looks far too "heavy duty" for its use - got it from BM.

Looks to me like that spring's going on the wrong end. Stocky spring goes on the 2 hole end, and in the lower holes. Springs go to the back.

I thought that each "pair" of shoes was set up so that each spring could have a choice of 2 settings.
Does this mean that the "as found" picture, I took, see earlier on in the post, was actually correct?

Looks that way. Will it help if I scan the relevant page of the workshop manual?

rogerowen wrote:Looks that way. Will it help if I scan the relevant page of the workshop manual?

Roger,
I've got the manuals and have now looked at page M.11, fig. M.15 - what I had, had been fitted correctly, but it looked wrong.
End result is that I will have to take both hubs off again and fit brake shoes correctly!
Interestingly enough, the replacement "long" springs are very much like the originals and what I had fitted (and put back) was a "continuous" spring.
The front shoes and springs do both use the 1 hole one side and the 2 hole placement on the other (rather than 2 holes in pairs).
Many thanks, George.

Excellent! Hope you are not working outside.....Brrrrrrrrr