Fitting REPAIR PANEL, under floor, inner, rear
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- Minor Friendly
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Fitting REPAIR PANEL, under floor, inner, rear
What's the best way to remove the old panel, is it a case of drilling out the spot welds to the chassis from under the car? Also as it's a repair panel I'll need to cut the floor so do I mark round the panel & cut then butt weld or cut the floor about 20mm smaller then overlap spot & seam weld? Also will the new panel sit behind the jacking point like this (a little higher )Many thanks[frame]
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Re: Fitting REPAIR PANEL, under floor, inner, rear
Any chance of a bigger picture? That looks like the end of the jacking point.
Martha the Moggy Minor-the year long winter project!
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Re: Fitting REPAIR PANEL, under floor, inner, rear
Yeah that's the jacking point, I take it the rear inner sill fits behind that L shaped piece up a bit higher after I've removed what's left of the old panel
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Re: Fitting REPAIR PANEL, under floor, inner, rear
Is there a repair panel for this bit? Is it the sill extension ?
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc14 ... 03a420.jpg
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc14 ... 03a420.jpg
Re: Fitting REPAIR PANEL, under floor, inner, rear
There's NOTHING left up there - you're going to need several panels.....You will need to cut it all out. I doubt you will find any 'spotwelds' to drill out. May as well get rid of the jacking point - you are never going to use it anyway.... Is the crossmember itself still serviceable?



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Re: Fitting REPAIR PANEL, under floor, inner, rear
Underneath of car is pretty solid due to waxoil. Do I draw round the inner floor edge rear repair panel underneath & cut then butt weld or overlap?
Re: Fitting REPAIR PANEL, under floor, inner, rear
The basis for any repair,is to cut out ALL of the rusted metal , the extent of the missing metal then determins if you patch it or replace the whole panel,it,s imposible to say, without having the car in front of you,how much needs to come out,and it also depends on how far you want to take the restoration.
As far as welding,patches should be butt welded all the way round them,if you overlap then you risk further rusting between the two metals,at a later stage.Sometimes you have no option to overlap,just make sure the overlap is inside the car out of the wet,or seam weld both sides to seal the gap using weld through seam sealer. With new complete panels weld through seam sealer on the joint,and you then have the option of spot welds or seam welds ,again your choice,but I seam weld mine , gives a much stronger join and forgives a bit of poor welding technique,its sometimes difficult to get a good strong spot weld,everytime.
As far as welding,patches should be butt welded all the way round them,if you overlap then you risk further rusting between the two metals,at a later stage.Sometimes you have no option to overlap,just make sure the overlap is inside the car out of the wet,or seam weld both sides to seal the gap using weld through seam sealer. With new complete panels weld through seam sealer on the joint,and you then have the option of spot welds or seam welds ,again your choice,but I seam weld mine , gives a much stronger join and forgives a bit of poor welding technique,its sometimes difficult to get a good strong spot weld,everytime.