Morris Minor Owners Club

i have not done this before but my girlfriends 2 door has eaten the brakelight switch again does it just unscrew and refit is there any brake bleeding required many thanks .

It unscrews but hold the brass union to stop it turning with it, you should get away without bleeding, just make sure the fluid is up to that point.

Make sure the new one is the correct thread . Put a couple of rags down to catch any spilled fluid - unscrew the old one - then be ready when it comes off to put a thumb over the opening - while you swap the old one for the new one in your free hand - and then remove the thumb and immediately fit and screw down the new switch. A small amount of fluid is likely to escape - mop it up with the rags - and then wash the area with soapy water to remove all traces. Good luck!

my girlfriends 2 door has eaten the brakelight switch again

Strange, as they usually last for years and years. Are you sugesting that the modern replacements may not be very reliable?

my car has its origional 51 year old switch i think that tells the story .

Before fitting the new switch, squirt some brake fluid into the opening and fill it. Then keep your finger over it as you line it up ready to screw in, removing finger at last possible moment. You might lose a little of the fluid, but most will stay in, and help avoid an air lock which can delay the operation of the switch.

If the brake light switch is slightly lower than the master cylinder then fluid will flow out preventing air from getting in and the need for bleeding.
Is it a screw terminal or spade connection?

Remember that the switch is mounted above the engine bay floor, which is above the chassis leg. The master cylinder (and reservoir on a standard car) is inside the leg, below the level of the floor. The switch therefore cannot be be lower than the master cylinder.

The master cylinder (and reservoir on a standard car) is inside the leg, below the level of the floor. The switch therefore cannot be be lower than the master cylinder.

Agreed, when the car is sitting level. If the rear of the car is elevated enough, the BLS will be lower than the MC.

Or the front wheel removed and the jack lowered until the brake fluid is level with the top of the pipe

----or surround the area with rag and get someone to slightly press the pedal as the switch is screwed in.

interesting, I wondered why my brake light on th mm came on only when you pressed the pedal hard

I've had the same problems and done most of the above. My 63 Traveller is in daily use and the switch the car had when I first got it lasted 10 years, however in the last 2 years I've had 3 new switches, the last one went on the blink last night (was only fitted in August after the previous one fitted failed during the mot test!!). seams to Me that We have another batch of shoddy/cheap parts and as a daily user its a pain in the backside.

Anybody know a good supply of quality switches?

Cheers Pete

I've had a switch fail, it came with the car but looked like a recent replacement.
Having seen previous discussion re poor quality I went for a Lucas branded one in the hope that it might last.

Here is the link:

http://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/l ... -158-p.asp

Seems to be a pretty useful supplier.

Good luck

Martin.

blues2rock wrote:I've had a switch fail, it came with the car but looked like a recent replacement.
Having seen previous discussion re poor quality I went for a Lucas branded one in the hope that it might last.

Here is the link:

http://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/l ... -158-p.asp

Seems to be a pretty useful supplier.

Good luck

Martin.

Thanks for that, ordered one on Friday, came sat morning, fitted sat pm! You can see they're different, so fingers crossed!! spoke to My garage, who has spoken to his supplier who said "we sell a lot of them"!!!! wonder if they do twelve packs? - one a month. Will keep you informed, hope fully by not posting as that means it's working ok

Cheers Pete

I have had to replace half a dozen brake light switches over the last few years. I don't think the modern replacements are good enough. Lucas ones would me nice to find if they were NOS in GREEN boxes. My MGA has not needed one in 30 years. I am terrifed of having to replace one because the clever Xflow head on that car obscures all the electrics and I can't even see that switch! Happy Christmas and a Good New Year to all our readers.

I have had exactly the same issue. The switch, now replaced three times including a Lucas branded part. Starts off OK, is sensitive to slight pressure, then over the following 12 months developed a greater and greater insensitivity until you are literally standing on the pedal to get the lights to work. I have flushed out any air in the fluid as well.

Is there another way as I am certain the parts supplied are rubbish. Thinking if there is a conventional switch kit?

TRTerry,

I recently wrote having the same problem with a duff switch that was fine when new then deteriorated...

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=56917

My work around is described. Not everyone's cup of tea as you might say. BUT it's a lot easier than changing the switch for possibly another duff one. So far it is still fine.

Is a washer required between the switch and the union fitting?