Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi guys
Could someone please give me some advice,I am about to replace the boxing panels , outer cills ect on my traveller,the the B post on the passenger side seems ok as does the A posts,do I need to remove them to replace the boxing plate as it is welded to them ,I will be replacing the inner flitch panel in both sides, and at the rear both boxing plate extensions are ok.
Any advice is most welcome,I have posted some pics.sorry but the last pic of the rear was attached by mistake (Now removed - Jon) but don't know how to delete it,plenty more pics of restoration to follow.
Cheers
Mark[[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Not too sure about the boxing panel on the traveller, but on my 2 door saloon I braced the door aperture and got to work with a good spot weld drill bit-when the door frame spot welds are drilled out, you have enough room to gently pull it away from the box section and drill out the spot welds (loads of 'em)and then the box section can come out, in bits in my case.
On reassembly, clamp the outer sill (the long one)in place under the box section flange, check that your door sill plate cover lines up with the locating bolt holes and that you're happy with the fit before tacking in place-also trial fit the underneath sill panels for placement and you should be ok. [frame][/frame]in the pic the lower part of the b post was removed- I drilled out the spot welds securing it to the boxing plate and left it in situ,but it was very fragile so it had to be cut off, the n/s one was left in place.

About to do this myself on a 2 door, bjbrownie how did you brace it? Have you got any more pictures? Thanks

Hi trafalgar blue.
Just weld a length of angle or box across the door from A to B post both sides
Mark

Hi all, I just used the outer sill trim section,the bit that's bolted on under the door- it's u section angle and well strong, it won't twist and as I'm replacing it anyway it was ideal for bracing the door aperture ( sort of recycling!), I just ground the paint off either side of the inner door frame and tack welded it in- don't overdo it as you will want to take it off as cleanly as possible to minimise grinding/cleaning up this visible part of the car.
I replaced the boxing section leaving the floor pan in place, and when all of the outer sill parts were securely welded in I removed front and rear floor pans,beware when cutting out rusty sections,you may cut out a little more than the new panels may cover, needing a bit more metal to be let in, the rear floor pan on the drivers side had rotted out taking 1/2" of the floor pan near the rear spring hanger. A good tip I can recommend is to get 2 pairs of ramps which get the car high enough off the ground to give really good access to the sill/underfoor area-it made my life a lot easier, axle stands are not high enough when doing work on this area I think.
Read up on nams query in this section,he's doing similar floor pan repair-and go through members experiences on the same for hints,tips and pitfalls of the job![frame][/frame]Pic shows the sill trim section being used to brace the door aperture before cutting out the boxing section.

Your boxing panels don't look that bad to me,are you sure you want to rip them out,could be a very small bit of repair at the bottom edge and they would last for years ,with a good clean up and rustproofing.

Thanks Kennatt
Is the rust that can bee seen inside and at the bottom of my boxing section the under sill section ?
Obviously if I don't need to replace the boxing sections it will save a lot of expense and time.
Mark

It may be as well to just replace the LOT - and then you are welding good metal to good metal, and you know it has been DONE.

Thanks Bhc that was my original thinking as I want to restore this properly ,but will need advice from you guys to help me along,
Mark

Patching up with metal plates is only a temporary solution, even if it does last a few years, you can't see the rot behind the shiny painted bits and when you do start welding and hacking about,previously sound looking metal will flake and fall apart,seams on the Moggy are especially prone to doing that, so if you're going to do the job,do it properly once-you don't want to be redoing the same repair in years to come.