Morris Minor Owners Club

During investigating all the squeaks and taps and knocks the Moggy makes...I've found that the final and loudest knocking is the exhaust, more precisely the initial down pipe going away from the manifold, as it goes through the hole in the chassis/floor panel. It has been fitted (by prior owner) so close to the body, that when idling, with choke all the way in, it knocks against the chassis like someone's trapped under the car - trying to escape. So I find myself just resting my foot on the accelerator, when for example waiting at lights, to pick the revs up so the knocking stops, which of course is wasting fuel. Anyway...The exhaust is solid, no loose connections, it's sound,...just way it's been fitted. I was thinking of wrapping something round the exhaust so it is cushioned against the chassis where it is knocking. Anyone got a suggestion to what I could use...Rubber? Fabric? Metal mesh? Ideas please

a hammer and a blunt length of metal and tap the bodywork where the exhaust passes through
its more down to aftermarket components i.e. the exhaust rather than the previous owners fitting of it
they all tend to be tight at this point so a good few belts with a hammer and bend the bodywork just enough ,not too much,to let it clear,and remember to touch up any small chips of paint,, simples

simples and cheap...cheers

Now it shouldn't take much to clear the pipe, if after you have done that and the noise still persists check the engine steady bar for slack and worn rubbers then check the engine mounts for worn rubbers and another check is the rubber mounted exhaust brackets for wear, that is,are they the full width as when new and not hanging by a thread.
Ooops forgot to mention, but this would only be a faint possibility is the gearbox retaining/steady wire at the corecct tension and not overlay slack

If you have to knock the body about to get the exhaust to fit there must be something drastically wrong! To me that is the unprofessional and wrong way of going about it. If anything needs to be knocked about (or adjusted) it must be the exhaust!!! But of course only after checking that the engine mounting rubbers, the engine steady bar (including where it is fitted under the battery where it has a tendency to crack). the gearbox fore and aft steady wire are all serviceable; and the exhaust itself is fitted and aligned correctly under the car, that the exhaust hanger straps are the correct fitment/length.
Check and adjust the above before bashing the body!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

philthehill wrote:If you have to knock the body about to get the exhaust to fit there must be something drastically wrong! To me that is the unprofessional and wrong way of going about it. If anything needs to be knocked about (or adjusted) it must be the exhaust!!! But of course only after checking that the engine mounting rubbers, the engine steady bar (including where it is fitted under the battery where it has a tendency to crack). the gearbox fore and aft steady wire are all serviceable; and the exhaust itself is fitted and aligned correctly under the car, that the exhaust hanger straps are the correct fitment/length.
Check and adjust the above before bashing the body!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Who the xx xx xx mentioned BASHING THE BODY butout if you can't be helpful,and stop repeating my advice on checking the rubbers etc,try and come up with your own ideas,

O dear we are on a short fuse.
You did say to knock the body where the exhaust passes through and with a good few good belts with a hammer etc etc - if that is not bashing the body and it is the body you are talking about I do not know what is?????????????????
If I choose to repeat in a similar fashion what is posted above that is my choice and it happens all the time on this forum. Anyway you did not mention the possibility of the engine steady breaking away from below the battery box.
Having served my time and worked in a BMC garage I know exactly how to fit a Minor exhaust correctly and bashing the body to make adequate clearance is not how it should be done and further more my foreman would have had my guts for garters if I had done what you have suggested above................. I did not undertake a 5 year motor vehicle technicians apprenticeship for nothing and I was trained to do things properly and always have done so even if it means taking a bit longer to complete the job.

Now, now chaps All great advice. Thank you.

My exhaust does the same thing, it's fitted correctly, just made on a bad jig. I can assure you I will not be swinging any hammers, the opening through which the pipe goes has a properly formed edge, any tapping or bashing will distort it. I don't believe in spoiling something to 'correct' a fault elsewhere! My solution will unfortunately involve a little work, ie shortening the vertical part of the pipe before the manifold by half an inch.

Just re-hang the exhaust so it is clear of the body........

You can't when the downpipe is too long before it bends round.

Suggests to me the engine is sitting too low then? Or modern exhausts are extremely poorly made. If it's really too long - I suppose it will need to be cut-and-shut!

I did consider that but It's not the case, I've seen many minors in the past, including mine that split the bodywork in this area because of the contact between the two parts. I'm convinced it's down to the exhaust. I have a nos spare that is probably worth offering up before I go too far.

Would be interesting to see the two side by side.

Won't be using the van for a while now, so job not on the menu at the mo, if I remember I will take a couple of pics when doing it. The discussion will probably be forgotten by then though!

No no - I will remember....... Although - these days I often find I can't even remember where I put my keys.......

I know what you mean!

After reading the way this thread has gone I'll be having a good look at this prob and will re-issue anew thread to let you knoe how I get on. Let us know how you got on too Les.

bmcecosse wrote:Just re-hang the exhaust so it is clear of the body........

On closer inspection my hanger has snapped. Will also fit another nearer the front of the exhaust that slightly pulls the downpipe away from the floor pan.

Renew the hanger by all means but pulling the exhaust away by putting it under tension is not a good plan. Ideally it should take up it's natural position, and if that causes contact, the pipe is wrong.