Convertible conversion sill strengthening panel

[bluegrass]

I'm converting my saloon to convertible. I know the originals had the sill strengthening panel inside the sills rather than outside. Has anyone done the conversion and put the panel inside the sill, i can only find the 'outside' panel.
Are there any other differences between the original and converted saloon? I want to make it look as original as possible whilst having the peace of mind of using my 'solid' car as a basis for the conversion. Thanks

[tysonn]

Theres a brace either end of the dashboard to A post and another brace from the sill to the bottom of the B post.And of course the panel thats welded above the windscreen that has the roof fastening posts.As far as I'm aware the sill strengthener you mention is correct.I think you can buy a complete kit of parts to convert a saloon?Bull Motif sell all the bits.

[bluegrass]

Hi, yes the panels you mention are the ones I am looking at. I think the ones under the dash were originally spot welded, which is what i will try to get done. The inner sill strengthening panel is the tough one along with the windscreen surround shape. I think the current kits provide a panel for putting outside the sill rather than inside. On my car the sills need some work before the conversion, so it is an opportunity to put the strengthener inside the sill rather than outside if I can get the 'inner style' panel. As for the windscreen surround, I'm not sure how possible it is to achieve the original shape as on the factory convertible. Its a 1968 car, so I think the sun visors were fitted anyway, which some earlier cars were not.. Any advice much appreciated.

[tysonn]

I was always under the impression that the conversion sill strengthener on the inside of the car was exactly the same as the factory convertible but could be wrong.You could retain the door switches and add some small lights below the dash.My 68 Mustang convertible has these and they do help when you get in in the dark.The panel above the screen is a replica of the original so looks exactly the same.I shouldn't worry too much about trying to make it look totally original.If it really bothers you then buy a genuine ragtop,after all the cost of converting the car to a good standard won't be far off what an original would cost and the chassis number will give it away anyway.Where are you?I used to have a CD that came with my kit,I'll have a look to see if I can do you a copy.

[bluegrass]

Yes its a close call between getting an original convertible and converting. To be honest, it seems very hard to find a really good genuine car that is in good enough condition for a 'reasonable' price.
For example, to convert my car which cost @ £2000 will be around another £2500 including replacing the sill areas.
That gives me a very solid late car for £4500. It already has a great interior.
If I could find a genuine car for say £5000 that was in good clean unmolested condition, i would be very interested, but most i see need a lot more work on top of the asking price.

[IaininTenbury]

Yes the conversion kit sill strengthener is intended to go on the inside of the car and be covered by the carpet, purely because its easy when dealing with a sound car. If you're doing the sills anyway, you can fit the panel inside the sill so you can see it throught he hles in the boxing plate as the factory did. Nothing in it strengthwise, just satisfaction in doing a neater job....
The panels inside the sill however are a little deeper with a small flange on the bottom (not sure if anyone still makes them at the moment) the same as the traveller stiffeners that few folk seem to use, whereas the conversion kit ones don't have that bottom edge.

[tysonn]

There you are.I stand corrected.Virtually impossible to replicate the spotwelds on the A and B post braces I reckon.Plug welding's the only way but it wont look like a spotweld.

[klm]

The sill strengthening panel supplied with conversion kits is simply a folded 18g steel sheet to be welded outside the sill. The original Convertibles had a panel welded inside the sill of a complex shape with raised section to give additional strength. I have been trying to get information on this panel so that I could fabricate a pair for my car although I am aware that taupe has developed a panel close to the original as part of his traveller restoration.

[bluegrass]

I have investigated the convertible/traveller sill strengthening panel issue further, and found that everything is available to rebuild the sill to original spec including the difficult to find strengthening panel. They are available at the Birmingham Morris Minor Centre.

[IaininTenbury]

Yes, the proper traveller/convertible sill stiffeners are available from there and any other stockist of Sri Lanken panels (looked into it myself too!).
(It'll save me making my own now....)

[Trafalgar blue]

Is it part number REP101 on jagspares web site?

[bluegrass]

The right hand panel is REP100, and the left hand is REP101. Both are Sri Lankan made panels.

http://www.jagspares.co.uk/Morris/PartV ... perpage=10
http://www.jagspares.co.uk/Morris/PartV ... perpage=10

Here I include two pictures. The first is the strengthening panels along with The two 'Boxing' panels REP097 and REP096
The second, the strengthening panels alone.

Apparently if you are replacing or adding the strengthening panels, you will need to replace these Boxing panels also.

I hope that helps.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[klm]

The Sri Lankan made panel is the nearest to the original available commercially but the panel installed by BMC on genuine Convertibles had a raised section to give added strength. See the original panel developed by Taupe on the following thread:

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... &start=210

[bluegrass]

Ok, thanks for the link.

[IslipMinor]

Our new floor panels came with a complete inner sill upright section, so the whole length of the sill is double thickness and seam welded. Even so, using the jacking points will open up the door gap at the top by 5/6mm by the time both wheels are off the ground, so could be stiffer. What does a 'genuine' convertible open up by using the jacking point to lift the wheels off the ground?

In addition to the sill strengtheners, the 'original' convertible has additional 'quadrant' supports from the dash to the 'A' post, and the supports to the 'B' post from the sill. Both were originally spot welded, but plug welding for the under dash supports looks good after the welds have been dressed flat, and the 'B' post support can either be plug or continuously welded (for extra strength) - again dress the welds for a good looking job. ESM, Bull Motif and others do the panels.

Our screen header rail shape was achieved by a combination of cutting and shaping the old roof panel, and the final detailing with lead loading. It has the characteristic 'edge' along it that is 'original' convertible.

[tysonn]

If it helps Richard I have a "genuine" '68 Ford Mustang convertible and the doors open up on that in the same way.In fact the only soft top I've had that didnt do it was a 1985 MK1 golf cabriolet.Having said that they weigh more than the hatchback due to their strengthening.