Hi,
This is my first attempt at getting my brakes working. My foot pedal is totally locked at the top, any amount of hard pushing gives no movement. I opened the front brakes and checked. It all looks like it's fitted right but I got nothing when I opened the bleed nipple and my assistant pushed down. So reading some other posts it sounds like stuck brake cylinders?
If so how do I release them without damaging them?
I haven't opened the rear brakes yet, but my handbrake is not working either. Car has been stood for a number of years and someone had just loosened the adjustment screws so the brakes didn't lock the wheels up.[frame][/frame]
Standing that time - the cylinders are likely to be beyond repair - fit all new - they cost very little. But pressing the brake with a bleed nipple open should produce a sinking pedal and a stream of fluid....so it appears the master cylinder (or perhaps just the pedal....) is seized. So - work on the pedal first to see if you can get the pedal/master cylinder moving.
I will give the whole brake system a check. But first any idea how to get these little bleeders unscrewed! They are not budging one bit, instead the screw head is starting to get damaged. [frame][/frame]
You can try an impact driver - where the crosshead fits in the screw and then you hammer the driver - which shocks and turns anticlock at the same time......It is a VERY handy tool to have in the box for difficult screws/nuts/bolts. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HILKA-IMPACT- ... 25845fff06 But to be honest - the usual approach here is to drill the heads off - then drill out the remains and retap...
You need a screwdriver that fits the heads very well, as the impact one does.
The other approach is a long screwdriver that you can rest you weight on and turn with a spanner or Mole grips.
"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
Thanks, i'm going to pickup an impact driver. I'm off to a large auto jumble on saturday so should get one there along with a load of other things I need. I tried the long screwdriver with my full weight trick but no budging.
I would just drill them out and replace them as they are cheap to replace, they are brass so easy to drill. I think from memory they are 1/4" dia so if you drill them out with a 5mm or 5.5mm drill you can save the captive nuts. Drill a pilot hole of 2.5mm down the centre of the screw first.
By the time you have finished bashing the heads with a impact driver and chewing them up you will most likely need to drill them out anyway.
Richard
Opinions are like people,everyone can be different.
Another mini success. Got the cover off, I managed to un-screw three screws by getting a drill bit that fit perfect and turning it with a wrench. Three drilled out easy and I will worry about clearing out the holes another time. On opening the pedal bit is stuck fast, think the seal on the end of the cylinder is jammed.
Thanks for the advice. I'm getting the hang of rusty things [frame][/frame]
Well done getting the screws out It will be that the M/C is seized and/or the pedal has rusted onto the shaft. Disconnect the link to the M/C at the brake pedal to check.
Richard
Opinions are like people,everyone can be different.
Good progress - it will be the pedal/shaft that has seized up - release fluid and patience required - then start hitting it with a large hammer....... You can make your own releasing fluid with equal mix diesel fuel and acetone...Looks like you may be going to need quite a lot of it........
Reviving this thread pretty much a year later! I'm getting on with checking the brakes now. Ok to check the master cylinder. Where shod I disconnect it? The front nut going to the pedals or behind. I plan to put the car in the air with axle stands nd take all wheels off.
Take the brake pipe at the back off and then you can undo the connector that fits into the brass banjo union, this is also connected to a pipe that comes from underneath. There are 2 big nuts and bolts that go through the chassis leg, if its never been out before the torsion bar needs to be pulled down out of the way to remove the bolts. The manual tells you to remove the torsion bar to get the bolts out but in reality you can use something like a claw hammer to pull it down a little and put a block of wood in to leave wiggle room for the bolts.
Then in theory you can pull the cylinder out, with rust and stuff this can be a struggle, a few taps with a hammer should hope fully free it leaving the pushrod attached to the pedals.
Finally got the pedal released, thanks for the tips. It took hours to do but in the end found the Master Cylinder totally siezed. Full of brake fluid but not coming out of any hole! I ended up cutting the rear brake pipe and undoing the split pin at the front.
I'm ordering an new master cylinder and these brake pipes
Nam,
Yes, both are kunifer.
The new master cylinders on the market are sometimes wider than the originals and you may have to take an angle grinder to it before it will fit in the chassis.
Been there...
Regards
Declan
It will be that the M/C is seized and/or the pedal has rusted onto the shaft. Disconnect the link to the M/C at the brake pedal to check.