Morris Minor Owners Club

Having the Fiesta done very shortly, and will get Moggy done when I've had the bottoms of the doors bonnet and boot lid repaired of rust and then painted.
I don't want to be messing around with this stuff on the path, as it'll cause trouble, and it's messy damp and horrible out there now anyway, so good mate of mine has a garage with a ramp, and he's offered to do it, cavities and all for £60 inc materials.
Trouble is, he's asked me, black or clear?

Is there any significant difference here?

go for clear, it cleans of a lot easier when the nice weather comes and it runs out of the doors and seams onto the bodywork....

PaulTubby wrote:go for clear, it cleans of a lot easier when the nice weather comes and it runs out of the doors and seams onto the bodywork....

My 'man' reckons black as it look better in his opinion and easier to see what's been covered/missed, but been thinking clear myself too tbh.
Wonder if the black will look a bit tacky, ott and obvious too.

Are there actually any material and effectiveness differences between the two colours?

Confused.

I'd say clear too, remove the gearbox cover to give maximum access to the front chassis legs.
The same for any trim panels that cover cavities, all of them really.
Saloons had bits of foam pushed into the chassis at the boot end, these need to come out too.
I'd suggest you help him out at least, if you want a good job done, you care more about the future of the car than he does.
Warming up the Waxoyl will help it spray better and thus cover better.

black will stay shiney and wet looking for a long time, clear goes off and doesn't look wet... my honest opion..

PaulTubby wrote:black will stay shiney and wet looking for a long time, clear goes off and doesn't look wet... my honest opion..

So you prefer black after all then?

No, clear all the way, black looks like covering stuff up, ie not good stuff" !

It depends on what's happening next. If I was keeping the car I'd go black, because it has a better look. But if I was selling I'd go clear, so the prospective purchaser wouldn't be worried that I was covering something up!

theminorsite wrote:It depends on what's happening next. If I was keeping the car I'd go black, because it has a better look. But if I was selling I'd go clear, so the prospective purchaser wouldn't be worried that I was covering something up!

Now you've said that, I think I've come to realise that that is what's niggling in the back of my mind.
What's it hiding?

Think I'll go clear.

How often do you Waxoyl your cars then lads?

I think once every couple of years should be ok, but it depends on if you use it as an everyday car. Also try not to thin it down to apply it, warm the cans in hot water before you spray it on.

Trickydicky wrote:I think once every couple of years should be ok, but it depends on if you use it as an everyday car. Also try not to thin it down to apply it, warm the cans in hot water before you spray it on.

But surely warming it up thins it down?

Warming the can makes it easier to apply, just stand the can in a bucket of hot water or, for a couple of days before you spray it on, put the can in an airing cupboard to warm the waxoil.
I take it you thought I meant add water to the waxoil?

To get it to spray more easily - and to 'run' in to nooks and crannies - I always thin with white spirit AND warm the mixture. Best also done on a nice warm summer day ........

Hi,
I use Black waxoil / underbody sealer for the underside, to help keep the rust at bay. The only thing it could be said to be covering over would be the repair patches and as it's sprayed on they are still visible.
For the cavities and box sections I use Dinitrol cavity wax (link below), not the cheapest but superb stuff, does exactly what it says on the tin! I highly recommend it!
As to how often, as often as you feel necessary, Abby lives outside at present, which probably makes me more vigilant.
Best wishes,
Mike.

http://www.frost.co.uk/dinitrol-ml-cavi ... 500ml.html

PS: I also bought their extension hose, then extended it further using screen washer hose, so I can really get into the nooks and crannies!

Trickydicky wrote:Warming the can makes it easier to apply, just stand the can in a bucket of hot water or, for a couple of days before you spray it on, put the can in an airing cupboard to warm the waxoil.
I take it you thought I meant add water to the waxoil? :o

Do I REALLY come across as being THAT dim?

Spend some time working underneath the car first of all cleaning (ideally steam cleaning underneath but pressure washing will do), identifying rusty areas and loose/flaking underseal and wire brush this before painting with a rust-preventive paint, i.e. POR-15.

Cars rust from the inside out, so pay particular attention to box sections.

Use neat Rustbuster Mil-Spec for exposed areas underneath and then thin it 30% with white spirit to be used in the cavities. Yes it must be warmed up before use - boil the can on a stove shaking can regularly or stand in a bucket of very hot water for 20 mins also shaking the can regularly.

Waxoyl itself is an outdated product; use something much better like Rustbuster Mil-Spec.

I think I'm probably correct in saying that the car has to be absolutely 100% bone dry before applying btw?

Tax runs out on my Fiesta in just over a weeks time, and I've got to drive it to Nantwich to get this job done.

Anyone sort out a couple of bone dry days within the next week please?

Waxoyl itself is an outdated product;

I'm quite happy with the results......