Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi
Can anyone tell me what size socket I will need to remove the steering wheel nut on a 1967 1000 Thanks Dave

3/4 whitworth

Don't fully remove the nut before you've given the wheel a good wiggle and loosened it off the taper - otherwise the wheel might let go all of a sudden and smack you in the face!

Dave
Roy... in a previous "post" said that ;_
a 1 and 5/16" AF will fit the nut, as well as , either a 33 mm a tight fit or a 34 mm described as a loose fit.
Just see what you can get hold of or borrow.A deep socket is always best.

Using the " search " facility will usually throw up the answer you are searching for and there is a reference point at the start of the mechanical section that deals with nuts/bolts and spanner sizes.
Heed... Biggles1957 's tip... if you don't want a fat lip or at worst broken teeth.

Bob

Thanks very much !

will follow your advice


Regards Dave

I just use a chisel and hammer - had to do it a couple of weeks ago - it works very well..... Struggling with a socket is not so easy - it needs a sharp blow to get the nut moving....., and to tighten it again. And yes - the weary willies will be gasping/fainting in mock horror. Honestly - this is a nut that is not seen - and anyway - there is a very good chance it will already have chisel marks showing...... And only very early cars have the wheel on a taper - most are on splines.....but you still must leave the nut on (loose) while you shock the wheel loose - hammer and piece of timber required.......

Weary willie 1, why encourage a cowboy trick before trying the correct tool. These sort of antics are last resort methods. I don't know why you are so attracted to this hammer and chisel lark.

A correct tool beats a botch every time

les wrote:Weary willie 1, why encourage a cowboy trick before trying the correct tool. These sort of antics are last resort methods. I don't know why you are so attracted to this hammer and chisel lark.

Old school

Because - it NEEDS a sharp blow to free it - it does no harm - if buying a socket just for this one off job, you need a deep one to avoid the horn contact etc etc etc. It works - and it does NO harm......

You can't defend the indefensible! If you do need a sharp blow a socket can deliver, using a static bar but if you do it up with a socket you can undo it with one. A chisel should be the last option------If you to stop pushing this method---I'll stop pulling you on it!!

les wrote:You can't defend the indefensible! If you do need a sharp blow a socket can deliver, using a static bar but if you do it up with a socket you can undo it with one. A chisel should be the last option------If you to stop pushing this method---I'll stop pulling you on it!!

Beter stop pulling me on it as well,I,ve undone hundreds of immovable/inaccessable nuts with a hamer and chisel,one of the classical ones being the studs that hold an MGB flywheel,to the end of the crank,they are so thin,and tight that a socket just fits and very often slips off rounding the edges,after the first one I did,all the other,10 plus,didn/t even look for the socket.

I'm with the chisel and large hammer. Works a treat. But maybe at my age and attitude that could be expected. And I have never found a socket that will fit when I look in my tool box

Because my big chisel won't fit I used a centre punch to remove mine.
Also when you replace the steering wheel smear a small amount of grease on the spline to aid future removal.

Have to support Les on this one. Age has bothing to do with it - once a bodger always a bodger and once an engineer always an engineer - probably more to do with being too tight to buy the proper tool.

As for thin flywheel nuts (or any other thin ones), the proper way would be to grind the 'lead-in' taper off the socket or use a good quality box spanner as they don't have a taper.

In all cases it is rather difficult to apply the correct torque (if that is critical) or even to 'feel' how tight/loose a nut is when reassembling with a chisel!!

A few more and you could form a posse!!

The big socket crew

once a bodger always a bodger and once an engineer always an engineer

Humble mechanics have to get the job done without resorting to bodgery, no doubt engineers can afford sockets of all sizes and configurations.

Sorry, looks like my last post was out of sync, it was intended to follow last post on page 1.