Morris Minor Owners Club

I'm assembling some new trunnions and it seems that as soon as the two halves of the lower front arm are bolted together the fulcrum pin locks up. The other side of the car is fine, both trunnions were bought as complete kits from the same source. Any ideas? Should it ever be necessary to shave a thrust washer in order to gain some clearance as required?
Off the car everything seems fine, no binding of pin in bushes or anything else appears to be wrong.
Thanks in advance for assistance.

It is just the trunnion pin which fits through the lower swivel and the two thrust washers which fit either side of the trunnion pin when fitted into the lower swivel and all held together by the thick and thin suspension arms.
The distance between the faces of the trunnion pin should be 50.86mm. The distance between the two faces of the lower swivel should be 50.44mm and the thickness of the trunnion thrust washer is 3.91mm.
The dia of the trunnion pin is 17.40mm.
All measurements taken from NOS.
If you have the above quoted measurements there will be plenty of free movement and it should not lock up.
Offer it all up and tighten progressively the eye bolt nut, the tie rod nut, the inner clamp bolt and the two trunnion pin nuts.
Have you replaced the thin suspension arm because I purchased a recently manufactured thin suspension arm and the hole for the trunnion pin was not drilled centrally for correct alignment which would cause the trunnion to lock up so check that for correct hole alignment because that may be your problem![frame][/frame]

Do a trial assembly with the king pin held up out of the way - to check if it is tight then. Perhaps the suspension arms are bent?

Thank you gentlemen, problem solved. Trunnion pin is about 2mm under length, so the thrust washers are up against the swivel housing, not the pin faces. Back to the supplier then.......

Or just add two x 1mm small dia washers - one at each end - but you shouldn't have to do that...

More on swivel pins - I have just fitted a new n/s swivel pin and found that the inner ball race came off and back on the old stub axle with a push fit but would not fit on the new stub axle, I had to use a lot of persuasion with a socket and club hammer so I am going to need that hub puller when I try to remove the brake drum. I am using Series MM hubs modified to fit M1000 swivel pins

Too tight - should be a firm push on, nothing more.

As bmc says the bearing should be a 'firm push on' not an interference fit!
As you say it was ok before you changed the upright the only difference can be the diameter of the stub axle.
I have just measured two NOS Minor stub axles where the inner bearing sits. The diameter of both stub axles were the same at 24.98mm dia.
There could be a burr or scuff on the stub axle which you missed which would not allow the bearing to be pushed on?
I personally would now remove the hub/bearing assembly and check the diameter of the stub axle and check that there are no burrs or scuffs that would restrict the bearing from being pushed onto the stub axle. Again personally I would never have used force to fit the hub assembly; if it did not push on first try it should have been obvious that something was amiss. I would have investigated further as to why it would not go. Never use force where it is not required!

Aye - but now it won't come off....so I suggest leave well alone now it's in place....BUT - what have you done about the seal?? Did you 'drive' the complete hub on???