Morris Minor Owners Club

My Series MM offside brakes, front and rear, seize on after pedal application which shows, to me, that the piston compression springs are not working (or there is a problem with the wheel cylinders).
I need to use a puller to get the integral front hub and drum off.
Any recommendation for type of puller that I should use? I've seen the drawing of the BMC part in the full manual, but have not seen this type for sale. I have a set of 3 different sized "tripod" pullers.

George.

Never needed a hub puller, have you slackened the adjusters, sucking eggs and all that? Then tap around the flange with a club hammer. Watch the pistons whilst the brake pedal is being pushed to see which is sticking then remove the shoes and clamp the working cylinder. Push firmly on the brake pedal and the sticky piston should pop out. Clean and re-assemble.
If that does not work I may have a puller

In my garage time we had a self made puller..
a heavy strip to mount between 2 wheel bolts, in the middle a shaft welded from 15 mm, and at the end a big nut.
Next, a part of heavy metal, such as a 5 kg hammer with a hole for the shaft.
then "hammer" the drums of it.
For mounting it, we had modified wheel bolts, to keep the distance from the heavy strip and the brake drum.

We also used this tool to take out the rear axle bearing, my colleagues made the tool for the landrovers they told me.
But very usable for removing brake drums from smaller cars ;)

Hi
I made a puller very simply. A bit of 10mm thick steel bar with 3 holes in it. The two outer holes to line up with the bolt holes in the drum plus a hole through the middle. Then buy 3 bolts, two to fit the holes in the drum 3.5inches long with 1 inch thread, drill clearance holes in the bar. One bolt 3 inches long threaded all the way up, and a nut to suit. Then weld, help from a mate or a helpful garage, the nut onto the centre of the bar to line up with the centre hole. The centre bolt is then screwed in to pull the drum off.
This has worked a treat on all my drums, and you will then have a tool to remove the drums easily each time you need to take them off. I have a mix of UNF and BSF bolts on the car and I purchased UNF bolts for the puller and just screw into the BSF holes a few threads by hand, so as not to wreck the threads.
Colin

mike.perry wrote:Never needed a hub puller, ...

Mike, today I decided to get the hub/drum off. Turns out I didn't need any pullers as the assembly just slipped off.
As it came off so easily, I got a bit concerned. Should it come off "just like that"?[frame][/frame]
I then tried the brake pedal and the pistons barely moved - looks like I'll have to disassemble them[frame][/frame]
The backplate has no holes to locate shoe "retainers" into, hence the blank holes in the shoes.
I'll move the rest of my posts on this into a new thread.
George.

Your in luck George, those are the later cheaper wheel cylinders that are fitted rather than the early alumuim type. A club member told me if you fit a backing plate from a slightly later car that you can fit these cylinders and still retain the drum hub assembly.

Have I got such a back-plate in this picture?

I think you have the later backing plate and cylinders fitted, the earlier cylinder is like this one

http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... f4c81c46a3

and up until fairly recently were very hard to get and costed about £60ish. These pattern ones are a lot cheaper.

David,
Thanks for the link. I definitely don't have the original back plates - I'm now moving the rest of this thread to "MM hi-light front brakes".[frame][/frame]
George.

Here is one I prepared earlier!

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... er#p430681


It's one of those things that you don't use very often, but when needed, it's a God Send!