Morris Minor Owners Club

I have one of the above fitted on the van. I'm getting 12.6v into the switch but only 11.4v out with ignition on. Does anybody know if the detachable 'switch' part can be obtained seperately? I know ESM do the whole unit but the locking part is all ok.
Thanks

Spray it all liberally with WD40 and work it back and forth many times...... When you get 11.6 OUT - what's going IN at that moment? Could be something is simply dragging the volts down? If it is really dropping volts like that - it will be getting HOT!

Good point, only thing on was the ignition. 12.6V in with 11.4V out. Battery few months old and topped up. I will disconnect everything and check volts in and out. I did have one burn out a while ago so this one maybe going the same way....

Frankly - I would leave the lock in place, simply to be a steering lock, and rewire to a standard Ignition switch on the dash....

Yes, that's what I was going to do but you can replace the just the ignition switch part of it. Complete assemblies are £50+vat so thought the switch may be a bit cheaper. Was hoping that just the electrical switch part was available as it is a simple two screw fixing.
Anyway, good news is that I get 12.6V where I should with other leads unattached. Just need to find now what is pulling down the Volts to 11.4. A weekend with the voltmeter is approaching.

But with everything off, there is no current draw - so there will be no heating /volt drop over any resistance on the contacts. Have you tried the WD40/many times switching?

Not yet, will look at this weekend/Monday.

Finally had a quick look at this again. It is when the coil is attached that the volts drop. Current draw of the coil is about 5.5amps. Not sure if this is the correct amount or not. I have an alternator conversion but it a DIY job with cables joined together at the old Control Box. Everything looks a bit grubby so I think a clean up of all connectors is in order and a re test.

Sounds a high current draw. The Impedance should be 3.2 ohms = approx 4 amps. Check the impedance, could be you have a 'ballast' coil with approx 2 ohm and therefore ~ 6 amps draw.... It will overheat and burn out....one of the few occasions it IS the coil.......

Will do but will have to wait for another week. Coil has been in a few years and been OK. I think the coil could be in the clear but I will check the resistance to confirm it's innocence.
Wiring for alternator conversion has connections joined and left connected to the control box. With ignition off the lugs A (brown/blue wires) and A1 (brown wires) read battery voltage 12.6V. With ignition on this drops to 11.6V. As I say, they all need a good clean up and I will report back then....

Just sounds like knackered battery and/or bad connections....... If eg you switch on the headlights instead - does the voltage drop even more??

Sorry BMC, I have just seen your reply.
Battery checks out ok with one of those load tester things. I have been working through connectors but still getting a voltage drop which happens as soon as the coil is connected. Have tried another coil and get same result. The switch itself looks sealed and is seperate to the actual key turning part. I will see what happens when I try to replicate the switch by manually connecting out the wires without the switch. I am also now getting some strange problems with my intermittent wiper relay and split charge relay that are fitted. Both seem to be chattering on/off alot. I think there is a bad connection (or two) somewhere.
Car starts and runs with necessary basic functions so will wait for another day.......