Morris Minor Owners Club

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it would be alright if you told us what you want to know

Here above is the brake servo I'm fitting on my moggy tomorrow. Can anyone just verify with me (as this servo came with no destructions) that Yellow cap A goes to the breaks and Yellow cap B is the inlet from the master cylinder. A out - B in?
This is a bek028 MM servo kit.

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Hopefully this is clear.

Pete

those instructions are pretty good for the connections. The only thing I cant see is that you need to orientate the servo so it sits nose up. ie at about 25 degrees to the horizontal with end A uppermost. It helps with bleeding by naturally allowing any air to go uphill and away into the rest of the system.
Good luck, Colin.

Could not have asked for better replies guys...Thanks very much

I just have to point out that a servo doesn't make the brakes operate any better...it just drops the pedal load slightly, and since it is far from 'heavy' on a well maintained Minor anyway - there is little point in a servo, unless you have a leg problem of course.. As the Minor brakes are fed from two different places on the master cylinder, you will need to remove the existing connection to the rear brakes, and plug off the opening in the master cylinder of course, and then you will need to run a new feed from the servo outlet back to the rear brakes, and to the front brakes of course. All adds to the fun of the job...... Also - because the 'nose' of the servo will end up sitting quite a bit higher than the master cylinder, you may find you need a remote reservoir to stop air pockets forming....and make brake bleeding more efficient...

You're welcome margriff.
Just one other thing that springs to mind is that on mine, some of the brake pipe connections/fittings had different threads so weren't interchangeable. Don't force anything when screwing the pipes up. From memory I had some spare end fittings along with what came in the kit and as I piped mine from scratch to avoid connectors, I found the fittings that fitted nicely and then ran a piece or wire to get the length of a tidy pipe run. Then it was off to my local motor factors where I said I want a pipe this long with these fittings on it. All was fine and it went together well.
Cheers, Colin.

Easy to just make your own pipes - roll of Kunifer and a Flaring kit........

Margriff,

Good luck, it's not at all difficult and a flaring tool is easy to use and will ensure you have pipe lengths that suit.

Pete

Just been going over brake bleeding threads and something BMC mentioned, coupled with the diagram posted on this thread, made me worry that the set up on my Traveller is wrong.It had marina discs fitted before I bought it, done about 20 years ago, and therefore has a servo fitted. My worry is that the connection for my rear brakes comes out of the master cylinder with a seperate feed to the servo on a banjo fitting. I'm having trouble with bleeding my brakes after putting new seals in master cylinder, brake calipers and replacing one rear wheel cylinder. Spent most of the day bleeding them and pumped about 3 litres of fluid through them. Thought I'd got it finished and they worked ok for a few depressions of the brake pedal until the pedal hit the floor and no brakes! Anyone got any thoughts on this problem?

If the rear brake connection comes from the master cylinder - then they are not going through the servo! Sounds VERY unbalanced to me...... And hopefully when you fitted new seals in the master - you left out the 'top hat seal?

Hi, it sounds unbalanced to me also now. I left out the top hat seal but, if the back end needs the top hat seal and the servo doesnt should it be in or out? Out, I would imagine, but it cant be good runing two different brake systems from the same master cylinder. Any ideas why the pedal just dropped to the floor after being bled correctly and seeming to have pressure? When the pedal pressure is good, after giving it a few pumps, and the pedal is kept depressed it creeps down. It suggests an air block somewhere, or a leak although the unions and pipes look fine. The front seemed to bleed much faster than the rear, and used a lot less fluid. Maybe I need to connect the rear to the servo before I go any further?

Either get rid of the servo - or pipe all the brakes through it........ You do have the calipers on right way up - with bleed nipples at the top?? Otherwise - can only suggest a problem with the master cylinder - new seals don't work if the bore is rusty..... And if you have disc brakes - the top hat needs to be out....