Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi, I have tried searching the message board but have not found a topic that answers my question. It would appear I have an oil leak from the rear of the crankcase engine block thinks that what they call it. I have a 948 cc. The seal has never been changed since owning the car in 1985. And the oil leak is getting worse.
The mechanic says they do a felt seal, but on checking with ESM they do a kit, but that the engine will have to be machined. Could someone enlighten me, as no doubt many will (I hope) on what should be done. And any other advice given will be appreciated.
Thanks Mike

There is no 'seal' as such - there is a labyrinth scroll that 'winds' the oil back in as the crank turns.....However - it can only work provided there is NO positive pressure in the crankcase - from worn piston rings/bores - or even just worn valve guides. So - the real answer is to fix the positive pressure - could be as simple as unblocking the pipe connecting the rocker cover to the air filter casing. To check - hot engine idling - remove the oil filler cap and rev up. Is there a plume of smoke/fume?? The oil seal conversion is reported by some to be useless - and yes it needs the crank tail flange to be machined smooth, and engine removed of course. And it's not inexpensive either.....

Try fitting a PCV valve. It works well on my MG.
Regards
Declan

Hi Declan,

Thanks for the advice but can you enlighten me as to a PCV valve.

Thanks again Mike

Mike,
Read through this.
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairq ... 079_1.html
You need the PCV valve, a flame trap and a tapping point on the inlet manifold and some hose. The valve and flame trap are connected between the inlet manifold and the crankcase breather. Then you start blocking off the air sources to the engine one by one. In the end you start drawing air in where oil was leaking out. The trick is that if air is going in oil can't come out. It made a hell of a difference on the MG. From a torrent to a dribble. The crankcase vacuum pressure at idle is -120mm wg (-12mbar)The carb will need re-adjusting. It does however upset the idle.

Regards
Declan

Yes a PCV valve is ideal - I just connected a pipe from rocker to inlet manifold on the 1340 Mini engine - the manifold connection being restricted to 1/8" dia hole. Cured all manner of leaks/smells. That really DID upset the idle - which was never all that great anyway due to v large valves and 544 camshaft... But it worked for me !

Hi,
Thanks for the info, are there any pictures or diagrams on the MMOC site of the PCV pipe.

Thanks again to one and all.

Mike

Here's a cheap PCV valve
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jeep-CJ5-7-8- ... 4d0b2fb9f1
and the flame trap to go with it
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-C ... 5d387555e5
I can't guarantee it will cure the leak but it certainly will reduce if installed correctly. The only other thing you need is a hose and some clear plastic/silicone tubing and a temporary T-piece to make up a U-tube to measure the vacuum.
There's a photo below of the temporary set-up on the MG but it's exactly the same procedure for the Moggy.
Regards

Declan[frame][/frame]

Hi Declan,

Thanks again for you info. I am not up on this type of modification, could I ask for some sort diagram re the vacuum test. Sorry to be such a pain.

Thanks Mike

Vacuum test?? Just rev up the hot engine with oil filler cap off -is there a plume of smoke/fume??

Here's a drawing which I hope explains it. The u-tube and t-piece is only to see what the pressure is and is not permanently plumbed in.
Regards
Declan
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