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Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 10:38 pm
by C.J.
Took the wheels off yesterday to clean the squeaky drums.
Noticed one of the nuts was very tight coming off, but a bit too easy going back on, in fact, it slid on! :evil:

Geezer that replaced the shoes 3 months ago must have stripped it using one of those damned air guns. :evil:

Anyway, just how do you replace it as it wasn't glaringly obvious at first glance.
I assume a stud and nut are easily obtainable btw? :-?

Off topic, but the front drums are badly scored which is probably why the brakes are howling
Generally speaking , which is cheaper?
A skimming or replacements?

Sanded the grizzly feeling shoes down with some fine grit paper, and it seems to have shut them up for now.

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 10:55 pm
by bmcecosse
I wouldn't worry too much about ridged drums - persevere and see if they wear smooth again....in theory increases the braking area.... :o Wheel stud - knock it out to the rear, then pull in a new one with a wee pile of washers and wheel nut on wrong-way-round - so the flat face is against the washers. If one has stripped - consider that they ALL are likely to have been subjected to the same excessive forces.....

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:01 pm
by C.J.
That simple ey?
As usual, I was looking for a complicated solution, thinking it was probably an engine out job. :roll:

Why would the newish shoes have been so rough do you reckon?
I assumed it was because the drums were/are so badly scored, and surely there is LESS braking surface due to the shoes not touching the grooves rather than more, or am I missing a trick (and a few brain cells :lol: ) here?

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:12 pm
by bmcecosse
The shoes will sink in to the grooves - so greater rubbing surface area up and down the slopes - not ideal I'm sure, but not terrible either once they 'adapt' to the shape of the drums... What diameter drums are they --- 8 inch I hope ??

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:39 pm
by C.J.
bmcecosse wrote:The shoes will sink in to the grooves - so greater rubbing surface area up and down the slopes - not ideal I'm sure, but not terrible either once they 'adapt' to the shape of the drums... What diameter drums are they --- 8 inch I hope ??

Don't know tbh. Why do you 'hope' they are 8"? :-?

Meanwhile, Miss C.J. has to use the car for the 5 mile commute in the morning, so I've told her to take it easy and not rag it around any bends...not that she would anyway.
I've been out in it tonight while she was out , and have just checked the three good nuts are still tight, which they were.

Tell me, can these studs and nuts be easily and quickly (tomorrow preferably) obtained from anywhere over the counter, rather than a mail order specialist?

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 8:53 am
by bmcecosse
Because the early 7" front drums are not very good....... Running with 3 nuts is not wise..... Depends if you have a supplier nearby - and you can go and pick them up! Or - another Minor enthusiast nearby who can lend you what you need....

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 1:08 pm
by chrisryder
Are you sure it's the stud that has stripped? Generally the nuts are softer, and more likely to strip first. You may not be able to see any thread on the stud, but could it just be full of the internal thread from the nut?

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 3:23 pm
by C.J.
chrisryder wrote:Are you sure it's the stud that has stripped? Generally the nuts are softer, and more likely to strip first. You may not be able to see any thread on the stud, but could it just be full of the internal thread from the nut?

Good point well made.
I shall try another good nut on the suspected stud tonight.

Bits of metal came out of the nut, so you could well be right.

Meanwhile, Moggy Minor repair center in Manchester have them in stock for about £3-4 each....PLUS standard carriage regardless of number of items ordered at a tenner.

I shall do an inventory of what other bibs and bobs I need and ring them back I think. Very pleasant and helpful btw.

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 3:42 pm
by Trickydicky
I myself have suffered the same problem and now keep a couple in stock for that reason.If I still had acess to a lathe I would make my own.
But I am lucky in that I live around the corner from a Moss depot.

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 4:02 pm
by C.J.
It's so frustrating, as all it takes is a bit of care to make sure the nut is on the stud correctly before tightening up.
Some garages don't give a stuff though. Just place it on the stud and RAM it on with the air gun, basically 'cus they're bone idle and don't give a stuff anyway. :evil:

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 4:12 pm
by chrisryder
Indeed, tyre places seem pretty ham-fisted. Recently had to get some new tyres on our modern car. Then came to take one off myself yesterday... using the piddly little wheel brace thing you get inside the spare wheel. With all of my weight jumping up and down on the end of it, I struggled to free off the nuts!

I've got to get some for the minor soon. Planning on taking just the wheels, so I can fit them myself. Or insist that they let me fit my own wheels back on!

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 6:35 pm
by C.J.
chrisryder wrote:Indeed, tyre places seem pretty ham-fisted. Recently had to get some new tyres on our modern car. Then came to take one off myself yesterday... using the piddly little wheel brace thing you get inside the spare wheel. With all of my weight jumping up and down on the end of it, I struggled to free off the nuts!

I've got to get some for the minor soon. Planning on taking just the wheels, so I can fit them myself. Or insist that they let me fit my own wheels back on!
I've suggested this before, but they come back with, "ahhh, but the air gun is set to the specific torque setting so as not to over tighten them"

Yea, right. :roll:

At tyre depots, I usually politely ask them to use a spider.

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 7:00 pm
by bmcecosse
Trouble is - Minor studs are much smaller than on modern cars....so the torque should be much lower. I doubt they adjust the 'gun' for that.

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 7:09 pm
by C.J.
bmcecosse wrote:Trouble is - Minor studs are much smaller than on modern cars....so the torque should be much lower. I doubt they adjust the 'gun' for that.
Well there we go then.
Think I'd better order 16 wheel nuts and studs then.

On the plus side to that, at least I'll feel like I'm getting value for money out of the carriage cost! :lol:

On a footnote bm', you suggested tightening the nut up (flat side first) using several washers, presumably to 'drag' the stud through the hub plate, all nice and snug.
I understand the reasoning behind that, but why 'several washers'? :-?

Got a feeling my hubs are the 7" ones btw.
Is this REALLY bad?

Do you measure the diameter from the inside, face to face?

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 7:55 pm
by bmcecosse
7" front drums are pretty marginal - yes - measure across the drum. An upgrade to the later 8" drums should be a priority. You'll need a pile of washers to pull it through - because the thread doesn't extend all the way.....and to help allow the nut to turn easily. Put a spot of grease on them......