Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi all,

I stripped off the rear of the traveller today and will have to replace all of the wood as its too far gone. I was planning on a Bull Motif kit as it's good value - any advice?

I think I've read every post on timber finishes, but without actually seeing them its hard to judge. Ideally I'm after a pale non-varnish finish. If you're happy with your timber, could you post a photo (if it's not too much trouble) and tell me what you did?

Thanks as always

I use teak oil - but it does darken the timber slightly - but then it wasn't new when I bought the car, and I had to scrape off layers of rotten old varnish - dry out the trapped wetness - then Cuprinol 5 star treatment, and then the oil........

New wood kit purchased from Traveller Timbers 2006 and fitted at home - (Bull Motif didn't have any in stock when I needed it ) Soaked wood in Cuprinol 5 (immersed small pieces of wood in large long greenhouse tray), then Danish oil every year.

Great stuff, any chance of pics of your traveller's behinds as it were? Or anyone elses?

Will get some of Vikki's "rear" tonight

Danish oil is what i chose to go for...it looks lovely.

Many thanks! Anyone else happy to share a picture of their rear ends with us all?

Errrr - this is a family site......you don't know what you may be starting ......

If Sunflower oil is made from sunflowers, and Rape oil is made from Rape seed - and Linseed Oil is made from Linseed - what is Danish Oil made from ??? Danes???

Pasteries ???

Hahahaha - maybe a bit too sticky then??

Whilst I don't recommend using it on traveller wood, previous post makes wonder what baby oil is made of?

A bit of baby works wonders on hard wood.

Here you go my rear end...!!!

One coat of light oak wood stain (Ronseal) applied with a cotton cloth.
Then numerous coats of Danish Oil applied with the best quality brush,de- nibbed between coats with very fine wire wool.

I stroke it every time I see it....and the timber on the car.

M M

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How long do you leave it between a coat and nibbing down for next coat and do you do any maintenance. How long has it been done and how is it standing up to weather. Sorry for all the questions but I got a decent secondhand set of timbers and currently stripping old varnish and rubbing down and bleaching out dark marks. What can be done with joints that aren't loose but have opened up a tiny amount eg thick paper size. Sorry again

ian.mcdougall wrote:How long do you leave it between a coat and nibbing down for next coat and do you do any maintenance. How long has it been done and how is it standing up to weather. Sorry for all the questions but I got a decent secondhand set of timbers and currently stripping old varnish and rubbing down and bleaching out dark marks. What can be done with joints that aren't loose but have opened up a tiny amount eg thick paper size. Sorry again

As for the joints that have opened up a wee tad, here's what I did! Worked quite nicely.


Coalmossian's Traveller; Minor Woodwork Issues

Lovely job there Mike - well done.

bmcecosse wrote:If Sunflower oil is made from sunflowers, and Rape oil is made from Rape seed - and Linseed Oil is made from Linseed - what is Danish Oil made from ??? Danes???

Bacon....

Morris Mike wrote:Here you go my rear end...!!!

One coat of light oak wood stain (Ronseal) applied with a cotton cloth.
Then numerous coats of Danish Oil applied with the best quality brush,de- nibbed between coats with very fine wire wool.

I stroke it every time I see it....and the timber on the car.

M M

[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

still chuckling... Your behind is very nice indeed! Thanks for the pics, really useful to see the process next to the outcome. I guess the oak stain gives it the warmth - i wonder if Danish oil on its own is yellower or paler? Any others?

Hi Coalmossian
Nothing came up on your post was there supposed to be a link