Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi all,
We joined the club after buying a 1966 4 door with some sensible upgrades. We are very happy with it but the kids think the ride in the back is "too bouncy"
I have ordered up some SAE 40 for the dampers. The car has been well serviced but I will grease the front suspension as required and top up the dampers. Will then empty, flush and refill when I have the time.
Rear dampers seem like they will take a bit more effort since the advice is generally to remove them but will do that soon.
Common practice with leaf sprung land rovers is to oil the leaf springs with old engine oil/petrol mix, helps the leaves move and improves the ride. I have seen only one favourable mention of this on minor forums. I was given books with the minor. One book (no cover or title) states that there are rubber mouldings between leaf clips and springs which are in place on our minor and advises not to get oil near them. The springs have superficial rust but the leaves aren't opened out or separating anywhere.
Would it be better to leave them as they are or use something like Castrol Chain Lube (for motorbikes) which is described as not attracting dirt and safe for rubber. Recommended once a year on a Morgan website.
What are people's views,
Cheers,
George

PS The car belongs to the wife, hence our handle Wildcat. Which is her favourite beer........

I would NOT oil them - that will only make the ride MORE bouncy....the dry springs act as self dampers to an extent. Are the rear bump stops in place - and how close are they to the chassis leg? It is permissible to cut a good inch off the bump stops - try to preserve the taper shape - and this allows more movement before the sudden 'bump' as the bump stop hits the chassis. You won't be disappointed with the SAE 40.......and yes flush through a couple of times for best effect - and then top up a week later - but always leave a small air space .

I cant see that a light spray with penetrating oil will hurt - hadn't they used to wrap the springs in an oiled material? or am I thinking of something else. I can see the logic why not to get to much oil on the rubber mouldings, as said above dry springs might dampen the ride.

i have always used old oil on my springs.
my father did for many years on both his cars and side cars.
i now clean the springs once a year before the winter with my pressure washer,
then a wire brush.
then cover the ground with a old blanket (get them from charity shop £2)
soaks up oil quick. then spray the springs. i use old ep90 drained
from my landrover.
works a treat

Big heavy duty springs were oiled/wrapped..... Light duty Minor springs - NO! In fact the 5 leaf springs are miserably weak - I would fit 7 leaf Traveller springs to stiffen up the back end..... The 'rough ride' people experience is the suspension smashing on the bump stops !

I had some old(ish) Hypoid oil left over from draining and refilling my Traveller's back axle recently, and today I used it lightly brushed on to the (wire brushed first) leaf springs while it was jacked up and rear inner wheel arches, also removed the rear chassis rail felt bungs in the boot floor and squirted some into each rail, to provide some winter rust protection.

I think the only rubber bits you need to worry about (aside from the bushes, unless poly bushed) are the spring lower U-bolt pads.

I'm also tempted to spray oil my rear springs. They are new and don't seem to do much 'springing'.

Different views on this. But it depends on your objective - is it to 'improve the ride', or rust-proof? If the latter, wire brushing and an application of black waxoyl might help. This will not harm the rubber parts, might even help preserve them......

I've lubricated the springs on ours(moly grease) then wrapped in leather gaiters, the 5 leaves were to soft if carrying any load and crashed through, just fitted a set of secondhand 7 leafs and they seem spot on. Old rusty springs have a lot of internal friction and act like very stiff dampers, if you lube them beware it might highlight any weakness in the dampers. (we have a modern telescopic set up)

I had new springs from Jones springs 2 or 3 years ago. I didn't lubricate them as such but I sprayed them with a motorcycle chain oil that claims not to be sticky. It's called BananaSlip and smells strongly of bananas (which I really hate!). All remains well but they could do with another spray this Winter.

Stephen

So it seems oil on NEW springs improves the ride and oil on OLD springs makes them to soft (or to soft under load) ?

I think it's important to realise that not all springs are the same and it is not just the springs but the whole rear suspension (dampers, bushes, drop links etc). People have been disappointed with springs from the main suppliers. They seem good at first but sag after a few years. That is why I had mine made by Jones Springs.

Stephen

Bought the springs from ESM in 2000, definitely no sagging.

Michiel wrote: ↑Tue Oct 21, 2025 12:25 pm Bought the springs from ESM in 2000, definitely no sagging.

Good. That was 25 years ago. I suspect they are not the same now.

Stephen

Sorry, it was in 2020, not 2000....

Isn't that the gut-wrenching stinky stuff? You've got a stronger stomach than me

Chipper wrote: ↑Mon Oct 20, 2025 12:08 am I had some old(ish) Hypoid oil left over from draining and refilling my Traveller's back axle recently, and today I used it lightly brushed on to the (wire brushed first) leaf springs while it was jacked up and rear inner wheel arches, also removed the rear chassis rail felt bungs in the boot floor and squirted some into each rail, to provide

Mix the old oil with paraffin as it gets into the welds much better. I have sprayed the insides of the chassis rails of my 1958 Minor for many many years and no rust in the front chassis legs or around the rear spring hangers.

I use modern 5w30 oil mixed with waxoyl, the way it creeps over time is amazing, I've still had oily stains appeating at seams 2 years later.

I've now driven our saloon with lithium greased 7 leaf springs and telescopic dampers, its a transformation.