Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi
Can anyone tell me where I can buy new brake adjusters please?
Many thanks
Liz

Usual sources - but why??? Never known one to 'wear out'. What's the problem? http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewP ... exID=17087

HI
it has new hand brake cables, new shoes and drums and after everything was fitted the handbrake worked for approx. 2 days and then appears to have slacked off (seriously so!). Any ideas greatly appreciated
Liz

The correct adjustment method requires the cables to be slackened off at the handle - then adjust up the in-drum cams until the brakes are just dragging - then adjust up the cables to put the handle where you want it. Usually two or perhaps three clicks. It's normal for new linings to bed in quickly - and the cables to stretch slightly too....

When adjusting the handbrake cable jack up both rear wheels and support. Check that the ends of the inner cables are not frayed and the lever on the brake cylinder operates freely. Oil the ends of the inner cables to prevent rust.
Apply the handbrake fully and check that both wheels are locked, slacken the handbrake lever one notch and check that there is the same resistance on both wheels, if not the tighten the slacker cable until both wheels are the same

Aye - but ONLY after loosening the cables, and adjusting up the drums first.....

bmcecosse wrote:Usual sources - but why??? Never known one to 'wear out'. What's the problem? http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewP ... exID=17087

Not often but I had one that was worn and would not hold adjustment,just kept slipping back on application of the brakes

Hi
many thanks for responses. Update so far;
cleaned off the shoes and drums(lots of dust), edge of shoe linings tapered off to 45 degrees, re-adjusted drums and handbrake as prescribed - some improvement but not as much as would like (still not holding on a hill without being left in gear). New handbrake cables seem slightly longer than old ones hence little adjustment left on them?
Liz

I hope you washed the drum out as opposed to blowing/brushing it out.

The handbrake should LOCK the rear wheels at 20 mph - and certainly hold the car on any reasonable hill.....are you sure the pistons in the rear cylinders are moving freely?

Will check this out tomorrow but they were only rewplaced a year ago:(

Here's how I test rear cylinders - (no doubt a string of objections will erupt - but here goes.... ) Wheel off/drum off/shoes off. Handbrake cable SLACK. Small hydraulic jack under the end of the cylinder - protect the little stepped parts with a piece of steel. Then lift the jack to take part of the weight of the car... Now an assistant presses the brake pedal and you watch the cylinder to see if it extends/retracts... It CAN be done single handed - you just watch for that corner of the car lifting and falling... Obviously take care not to push too hard - and make sure the car is otherwise well supported etc so it doesn't fall off the jack....

not april is it

I genuinely can't believe that BMC wrote that.

Please do not follow that advice.

Works a treat - and frees off slightly sticky cylinder very nicely too......

Sounds like a good plan to me.

Just to let you know am still following all the helps but steve's modified trav has misbehaved and failed its MOT(metal fatigue apparently) so is taking up all the attention-typical:(. These moogies get an awful lot of attention to their undercarriages!

Metal fatigue???

I think MOT man was trying to be 'funny'. 3 areas needing some welding work

I use same method with a lathe tool in the slot to protect the brake shoe seat, as BMC says, it works a treat.