Morris Minor Owners Club

My 1970 Traveller's now about 90% reassembled and drives in and out of the 'nigel farage'. However the clutch pedal's much stiffer than I'd expect.

When fitting the recon engine and original box I narrowly decided against replacing the clutch, as wear was visible on the plates but they looked still serviceable for some time to come. The car had been off road for the previous 20 or so years.

Since then I've fitted a new clutch pedal to replace the worn original, complete with new pivot bushes. Also I've replaced the bushes either side of the relay shaft mechanism. Yet the clutch pedal still needs about two or three times as much foot pressure of a modern car's. I don't know if Minor clutches tend to be stiff or not, but my 1950s Rover pedal isn't stiff like this.

The pedal doesn't initially feel stiff for the first 3 inches or so; resistance only begins as the arm on the side of the gearbox passes beyond a certain point. If the arm's disconnected from the mechanism, the pedal moves freely. Therefore I suspect the problem is with the clutch itself or the way I assembled it, not the mechanism on the outside of the box.

I've always understood that the forks of worn clutch plates offer less resistance, not more. Many years ago a chap showed me old versus new plates on a Cortina clutch he was changing, and how much easier it was to deflect the sprung sections on the worn one.

Any suggestions, other than fitting a new 3-piece clutch kit to see if this solves the problem?

Are you sure you are not over-travelling the clutch? Pedal etc moves freely - good. Does the release arm move freely too?? And - what clutch is it? The small diameter Spridget clutch is infamous for being short travel and heavy......

The heaviness begins before biting point, and it's a 1970 1098cc with a ribbed box. I don't know how to tell if it's the correct clutch, though.

If it is a 1098 engine and box then it will have a 1098 clutch as that is the only one which will fit. 3 in is too much, about 1 in free play at the top of the pedal is enough.

May have been a Spridget unit - with small /hard clutch....designed for hydraulic operation.

Sounds like the box needs to come off and a new clutch kit is almost inevitable. I noticed that the linkage plate holes are ovalled, so new 'uns should take away much of the free play. Hope the gearbox actually works after fitting it twice.

There is a grease point for the clutch pedal which is often overlooked. Give it a few strokes with the grease gun.

where ================

On the chassis rail, you have to crawl under the car to see it.

never seen one in my years but live and learn

It may have been deleted on later cars?

ah thats why