Morris Minor Owners Club

new borg and beck clutch makes a noise when in neutral and other geas, goes away when clutch pedal is depressed, also when low engine speed goes away when doing normal 40 mph speed, can feel it on the clutch linkage
any ideas welcome

I've just replaced with a B&B clutch but is was a few years old. I have a noise but it's the internal diameter of the release bearing rubbing on the input shaft. Could it be this?

its possible I think
it only goes when pedal i s depressed
would it be the first motion shaft

it was fitted by a garage, there is not a lot of free play on the pedal could this be it also

1" clearance on the pedal free play?

possibly a bit less say 3/4

could it be gearbox first motion shaft as suggested by the garage a wel known one in the south

Did you fit a new crankshaft oilite bushing?? Or at least - check there was one present....

I would think so as the garage done it a morris garage

You are very trusting......if this is a 'Morris garage' job - take it right back and tell them to sort it!

its in there now
they say it might be the first motion shaft

Nonsense......what can the first motion shaft do?? More likely the crank oilite bush (damaged or missing..) - or they damaged something while fitting the box. They MAY have damaged the first motion shaft bearing if they allowed the gearbox to 'hang' on the first motion shaft...that's not unknown.

thank you wil llet you know what happens tommorrow

have not heard anything today
if for any reason it as the first motion shaft , would it make a noise all the time, sounds like a grating noise on take up of the clutch pedal but goes when pedal is depressed

How can it possibly be 'the first motion shaft' ??? Unless they have bent it!! Refuse to believe this nonsense - if it was quiet before - it should still be quiet today. The first motion shaft provides the sliding splines for the clutch disc to slide to be gripped by the pressure pad. It is supported by the oilite bush in the fly, and by the bearing in the gearbox. It transmits the drive from the plate to the laygear - that's all it does! Changing the clutch will have no effect on it UNLESS they have bent it - or damaged the bearing by hanging the gearbox weight on the shaft. I still think it's most likely the oilite bush damaged/missing - OR they have unhitched the springs on the pressure pad assembly when doing the installation...... Don't pay a penny more! Indeed - I would be asking them to provide a car for your use while they mess about with yours.......... Please do reveal the name of this wonderful 'minor garage' -who haven't even bothered to contact you! i would be on the phone to them every hour - if not standing watching them 'hard at work'........

I have a car to use
why would the noise go away when the pedal is depressed and no noise or grating when running only returns at idle in any gears, if I increase the tick over the noise goes as well
unfortunately my health dictates other wise I would have done it myself

ta roy

When you depress the pedal - certainly the first motion shaft stops turning. Not sure I understand your 'at idle in any gear' ??

If I understand correctly:
Fact - A car with a good engine and box goes to a garage to have a new clutch fitted.
Fact - After the work, there a previously unheard noise has appeared, and a vibration can be felt through the linkage.
Fact - the garage has made a mistake and/or fitted poor or incorrect parts.
Fact - it is the responsibility of the garage to put right whatever they have done wrong. They have caused the problem. Plenty of consumer law to support this. If they have affected the gearbox, then they have to put it right, at their cost.

Now we come to speculation as to what the problem might be. Propshaft out of balance or rubbing. Universal joints damaged (unlikely, but just about possible). Gearbox mountings worn or loose. Bearing damaged as described in previous posts, Thrust bearing or fork damaged or poorly mounted.

Difficult to progress as the car is with the garage, but I would jack up the rear of the car so that the wheels are off the ground (secure the car safely on stands and chock the front wheels), and then run in gear, listening with a stethoscope (piece of wood pressed against the various parts of the car works well) to ascertain from exactly where the noise originates. Then we can move on to a more reliable diagnosis; but with evidence to date, I agree with Roy.