Morris Minor Owners Club

I last owned a Morris 1000 in 1973. Recently I retired and have been looking to turn back the clock and buy a 1970 Traveller. I have several questions which I hope members might be able to assist. Not at all mechanical minded but willing to learn and attend classes. At the weekend I viewed a Traveller which appeared to stand well but has some issues.
Can any member help?
1. When the engine is idling, stood, no choke - I removed the dip stick and the engine cut out. Repeated this twice and the same scenario occurred. It also happened when I removed the filler cap. The owner indicated they had noticed some lack of power "and would have it resolved" prior to my buying the car.
2. The rear doors have to be closed together to fit. i.e. it isn't possible to close and bolt the left hand rear door and then
close the right hand door. Is it a case of trimming the wood frame to fit or is there another problem.
3. The rear passenger side wing looks to be slightly out of alinement. Could this be related to question 3.
Additional information to assist members with their replies.
In the past 9 years it has only clocked up 2,000 miles and examination of the mountain of paperwork revealed
regular servicing but that the vehicle had not been MOT'd since 2011 - although used on the road. Vendor has indicated
the vehicle will be tested and the afore mentioned "issues" resolved before the purchase is finalised.
Many thanks and look forward to your advice and replies.
John

Number one depends on the crankcase breathing arrangement, it's normal for there to be some change in the tick over with the oil cap off but stalling is unusual, it may be the mixture is set a bit too weak.
The rear doors on the traveller I drive have to be closed together, I think it's typical.
A picture would help with the wing question.

I too have to close both doors together.

As for the wing, I have found there to be several different shapes for the rear wings of travellers. The fibreglass are a slightly different shape to the steel ones and I have seen at least 2 slightly different ones of these as well. It may be that the rear has been taken off the car for maintenance/welding and not quite aligned properly when replaced.

The idling / cutting out is fine - what's more important is - with the oil cap removed rev the engine (when it's fully hot after a run) and if there is a plume of smoke/fume then the engine is not too good. The rear doors are CORRECT - this is what stops them rattling!! Rear wing a bit more worrying. BUT - these are all trivialities - you are worrying about the wrong things! You need to worry about RUST. Lift the carpets (front and rear) and tilt the rear seat base forward - what do you see? Look underneath at the chassis legs and the main crossmember - what do you see? Squeeze the sills - any crunching? Maybe even ask for a 'sill finisher' to be removed so you can see inside - if this is a substantial purchase the seller will be happy to do that - only a few screws. Also -boot floor - is it solid?? And of course the timber.....any soft bits/dark bits/any 'woodfiller' disguised with a thick coat of horrible varnish?

I can close the doors on mine individually, and they have always been that way since the wood side frames were renewed, although they do have a closer fit in the damp and cold of winter (and summer!!). The rear wings are also replacements and one does protrude slightly more than the other. I suspect it's down to the fitting.

bmcecosse wrote:The idling / cutting out is fine - what's more important is - with the oil cap removed rev the engine (when it's fully hot after a run) and if there is a plume of smoke/fume then the engine is not too good. The rear doors are CORRECT - this is what stops them rattling!! Rear wing a bit more worrying. BUT - these are all trivialities - you are worrying about the wrong things! You need to worry about RUST. Lift the carpets (front and rear) and tilt the rear seat base forward - what do you see? Look underneath at the chassis legs and the main crossmember - what do you see? Squeeze the sills - any crunching? Maybe even ask for a 'sill finisher' to be removed so you can see inside - if this is a substantial purchase the seller will be happy to do that - only a few screws. Also -boot floor - is it solid?? And of course the timber.....any soft bits/dark bits/any 'woodfiller' disguised with a thick coat of horrible varnish?

Many thanks, the woodwork/timber looks brand new - and no horrible varnish. Spotted two small patches of rust. Thanks for reassurance about the rear doors - much appreciated. The boot floor feels solid and is currently fitted carpet, which I intend to replace with the vinyl leather. Thanks again. Good advice. cheers. John

GreenGiant57 wrote:I can close the doors on mine individually, and they have always been that way since the wood side frames were renewed, although they do have a closer fit in the damp and cold of winter (and summer!!). The rear wings are also replacements and one does protrude slightly more than the other. I suspect it's down to the fitting.

Many thanks for the reply, much appreciated.
John

It's the floor underneath the 'carpet' shelf that you need to worry about - where the spare wheel lives.....