Morris Minor Owners Club

I need your help in diagnosing a problem. The last week I put my foot on the clutch made a terrible noise, foot went to the floor and later found that the clutch pedal to gearbox connecting rod thingy had snapped. So i have replaced this rod so all should be good? well no. Everything is all now connected but there is no resistance on the pedal and it won't go into gear Its almost like the part where its connected (gearbox end of the rod that moves as you push the pedal) isnt joined to anything beyond and into the gearbox? any ideas what could be wrong?? Im thinking that the gearbox is gonna have to come out tomorrow

Broken clutch release bearing?

Or has the bearing fallen off it's perches on the release fork - if the end clips were missing... Have you definitely fitted the new rod right way - and is the return spring in place.

Have you fitted the correct rod and adjusted the freeplay correctly? Which engine and box are you using? It is a very simple mechanism - when I had a rod break many years ago, we got home using a wire coat hanger instead. With an assistant pressing the pedal, check the travel of the operating fork, and see if there is more travel available after the pedal has hit the floor.

The broken rod would not normally cause a hideous noise, so I suspect that it may well be an engine out job. You could remove the rubber grommet on the opposite side of the box and shine a torch in - you might be able to see if the clutch and release bearing are OK. Hope it works out OK.

Hi thanks for your responses! The rod is fitted correctly and i m using a 948 engine on a 1098 gearbox. The the clutch pedal isnt doing anything even though it all connected up. It doesnt feel like its attached in the bell housing...

Thanks

Well - as above - have a look inside through the rubber plugged holes. Torch in one - eye in the other - engine NOT running I suggest..... If you do need access - it is MUCH easier to move the engine forward rather than drop the gearbox.

Yeah I have taken the rubber off where the fork goes in, is there another inspection hole? OK so whats invovled in moving the engine forward (sorry about the lack of experience).

Really appreciate your help thanks

There's another rubber on the other side...for LHD use. You need to pop the radiator, remove the towers - support the engine on a trolley jack - put a rope round the gearbox (or another trolley under) - undo all the bolts/wires/cables(easier to just take the carb off really) and the exhaust at manifold- (or take the manifold complete off the engine - could be less work) and wheel it forward....

Removed the grommets on the side of the bell housing. Everything still looks attached, no bits of clutch plate or damage to be seen just appears to be not releasing from the flywheel.

948 engine, 1098 box??????? The clutches are different and so are the forks and release bearings. Are you sure that the set up operates correctly?

Yep think so everything has been ok up until the linkage snapped in 4th gear!

Can only think that when the rod snapped - the spring had no load - and it has pulled the fork out of the perches. Should be obvious if you look inside.....

Hi the release bearing and fork are still connected..

Well that's good news - are you SURE the rod is correct. Is it possible the linkage has 'flipped over somehow? Someone recently on here even had the spring on wrong way round.......... Also - compare the new rod with old - are they same length? How much free play is there at the pedal - I guess it's ALL free play at the moment...... What happens if you wind it all the way up the thread ? And were there any extra 'spacers' fitted before?

The pedal is almost loose feeling with no pressure, When the rod is removed you can move the fork freely with no resistance. All of the rod/spring/nuts are fine...

Thanks in advance.

So - if you move the fork so the carbon bearing contacts the clutch pressure pad - is there still room for the fork to move further to operate the clutch by depressing the pad ? Why did the rod break - had it worn down till it was too thin - or did something else go wrong??

Hi there is no room for the fork to press the clutch. As far as i can see the rod just snapped - it had not worn thin, Im presuming its just metal fatigue or what not.

If there is no room for the fork to press the pad - then something has gone wrong within - I guess the rod snapped because of high loading as the fork had reached end of travel. Looks like engine will need to be popped..

It's fixed! it turns out that we hadn't put the actuator rod on correctly, (was just telling you what my dad said) so that's a lesson learned and thanks for your help people! Another happy customer

I did ask if it was on the right way - or if it had 'flipped over' . Grrrrrrrr.. Glad you got it fixed!