Morris Minor Owners Club

I wondered if there was anyone in the locality of Winchester who might be willing to help me with fitting a new brake master cylinder. I am trying to get my late fathers minor back on the road. It hasn't run for 23 years!!

I've got the engine running quite nicely and I've decided to replace the main braking components rather than coax them back into life; to be on the safe side..... but I could really do with some experience and assistance. I understand that replacing the BMC is one of the more tricky jobs.

Thanks

Colin

Welcome to the forum Colin. I'm a long way from you - but it's not such a terrible job to do - the torsion bar can simply be 'levered' out of the way to allow the two long bolts to be slid out. Do you have a workshop manual?

Replacing the BMC is quite straightforward but replacing "the" bmc(ecosse) would be much more difficult

HUH....

From the Technical Tips section here is a description of how to remove/replace it.

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/index.php?page=320

I would highly recommend acquiring a workshop manual though.

Richard

You'll find you need rather more than a 'screwdriver' to do the levering, but the idea is right enough. When refitting the bolts - do MAKE SURE they are not too close to the T bar - you may have to saw off any excess thread sticking out past the nut......

When I replaced my MC, I used aircraft type bolts and "shear" nuts. Shear nuts are for bolts that are in shear as opposed to bolts in tension. Shear nuts don't stand as tall as standard nuts.
I put the bolts in from the centerline of the car outward. The nuts leave plenty of clearance from the torsion bar. I used a couple of washers under the head of the bolt to keep the outer end to one thin washer and the shear nut.
It will facilitate any future removal of the MC.
While the aircraft hardware may be a bit pricier than standard hardware, you can easily recover the cost. Use a "curse jar" where you put a coin in with every rude word. The coinage generated from the levering of the torsion bar during removal will cover the cost of the expensive hardware.
Here is what I used:
Part #: AN364-624A and Part #: AN6-30A
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/ ... n363_1.php
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an6.php

You're just waiting for me to say it, but I just can't be bothered!

Guys

Thanks to all of you for the great (and humorous) feedback

I do have a Haynes and a OEM manual so I can see how it should be done.

I'd still like to find someone local who know the Morris Minor and would be willing to give some support and advice?

I'm thinking of buying the Lockheed BMC and "Do your Brakes' kit from Bull Motif; a total of around £185. Does this seem like the best approach??

Thanks

Colin

What's in the 'brakes' kit??

The kits contains

DO YOUR BRAKES KIT(Late Pattern)*1963 onwards**Includes-4x Lockheed Cylinders Front,2x Lockheed Cylinders Rear,4x Bleed Nipples,1x Set 8 inch Front Brake Shoes,1x Set Rear Brake Shoes and 1x Complete Copper Brake Pipe Set(please state if Van/Pickup in special instructions when ordering)Master cylinder not included.

Do we know what year your MM is? Earlier models had 7 inch front brakes.
To coin a phrase, "Measure twice, buy once."

It's a 1967 model 2 door saloon

See how much extra for branded shoes, no name ones aren't very good.

And 'copper' brake pipes are useless/dangerous...... Ask them if they really are 'copper' - or the much better/safer 'kunifer'.....and what about the 3 rubber flexi pipes??? They should be renewed too....... And the handbrake cables?? Are they good?? Sounds like 'Do HALF your brakes kit'........

Master cylinder not included.

just fitted bmc twice it will not pass fluid sufficiently into brake lines to be able to bleed brakes.fluid level not dropping below filler neck anybody else suffered this.

Is there free play at the end of stroke when the pedal is not being pressed?

I would recommend not fitting the pattern parts, there's no room for error with the brakes being single circuit. Saving money here is a false ecomomy with your life and that of others,

john newton wrote:just fitted bmc twice it will not pass fluid sufficiently into brake lines to be able to bleed brakes.fluid level not dropping below filler neck anybody else suffered this.

Try starting at the front drivers side then front passenger side and then to the rears to bleed the brakes, sometimes it can be difficult to get the fluid flowing through after a complete brake strip down.