Morris Minor Owners Club

My car has developed a death rattle, which I've been told is either a shattered big end or small end casing. (don't worry, I haven't driven it since the rattle occurred).

Obviously, it needs sorting, but I'm a student with no access to equipment necessary to remove the engine, so I'll be using a mechanic. I've been told it may be cheaper to replace the engine. But if its coming out, I'd like to upgrade the block to 948 as it has an 803 block (although the car was sold as/performs like a 948).

How much of a conversion would this be?
Would I need a new gear box as well?
(Would it be cheaper/better to just get them to replace the broken casing?)

Let's see a picture of the engine... I have no idea what a 'small end casing is' - sounds like BS to me.... And yes - the 803 is a very weak thing - especially the crankshaft. A 948 will be much better - and is a straight swap. You don't need any fancy equipment to change a Minor engine. Remove the radiator and front panels - undo the engine and sit it on timber blocks - remove the 'towers' - then slide the engine forward over the front crossmember (protect it and the brake pipe) and it's out! Easier if you strip off head/dynamo etc first. Do you have a replacement 948 engine ready to go in??

A 948 gearbox and diff would be desirable when funds permit.

bmcecosse wrote:Let's see a picture of the engine... I have no idea what a 'small end casing is' - sounds like BS to me.... And yes - the 803 is a very weak thing - especially the crankshaft. A 948 will be much better - and is a straight swap. You don't need any fancy equipment to change a Minor engine. Remove the radiator and front panels - undo the engine and sit it on timber blocks - remove the 'towers' - then slide the engine forward over the front crossmember (protect it and the brake pipe) and it's out! Easier if you strip off head/dynamo etc first. Do you have a replacement 948 engine ready to go in??

Sorry, my typo there. I meant the big end casing or small end were creating the rattle, or does that still sound like BS? What would you need a picture of (surely it would be the inside to tell what was wrong?), or would it be better if I uploaded what it sounded like?

I was including garage in the list of equipment. She's parked on the road atm and, although its a fairly quiet road, I wouldn't feel comfortable fully removing it. I don't have a 948 to swap in yet, as I didn't wan't to buy one for it not to fit.

The picture was just to confirm if it IS an 803 engine. Big end casing - still BS..... Start looking for a 948 anyway....

A few pictures of the outside of the engine would help identify it.
803s don't perform like 948s
Is the oil light coming on?

It has a bypass oil filter, which I thought was only on 803s? [frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

The oil light hasn't been coming on, though as I said I haven't driven her since the sound started.
I've also the sound for more refined ears to listened to. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qh4S1koDkpk

Big ends have gone.

gold seal 803 alright. finding new big ends would be difficult.

And v v expensive..... Unless dedicated to keeping the 803, look for a 948. You 'can' instead put a 948 crank in the 803 block, but you also need later conrods to match the 948 crank big ends - which are larger (and better!). Also fit a new oil pump if you keep the 803 block....... However -I'm not absolutely convinced it is the big-ends. It's not a huge job to drop the sump and have a look at the big-ends..........

just a small comment. i would change the fuel line before you drive anymore. what you have there is a piece of garden hose against a hot manifold. once that has melted the hose, you'll have petrol pumped into a hot engine bay onto a hot engine....................

purchase a steel braided hose for about £5 for piece of mind.

Agreed, but I wouldn't get a steel braided one, just a normal rubber one. Local motor factors should supply..

chesney wrote:Agreed, but I wouldn't get a steel braided one, just a normal rubber one. Local motor factors should supply..

no. they are no better. i've seen a rubber hose melt as well.

other alternative, is to fabricate a heat shield to cover the exhaust manifold.

It's not to do with them melting. The braided hoses don't allow you to see the condition of the hose, and some agree that braided hoses have a much shorter lifespan. In any case, the ordinary rubber hoses are more available and cheaper. It should be positioned as far away from the manifold as possible, although with the size of the Minor engine bay I'd be surprised if an appropriately positioned pipe would see significant heat from the manifold anyway. A heat shield is a good idea.

You can change an engine with a couple of spanners, a trolley jack and a friend. You don't need to be a mechanic, questions are always welcome about things on here (or the Facebook group for young members, who tend to be a little more accepting for stupid questions)

It cost me around £300 to re-ring, hone the bores, deep clean the block, have the crank journals done, big end, mains and thrust washers.

Weigh up how long you can have the car off the road, what condition 948 you can get for the money etc. By all means it would be a welcome upgrade.

Sorry for delay in response, I've been up to my eyeballs in uni work. I will upgrade the engine, as I'm soon to be needing it for a commute. How long does an engine swap take with a friend, a spanner and a jack?

Would a mini 998 fit the current gear box?

onion wrote:Sorry for delay in response, I've been up to my eyeballs in uni work. I will upgrade the engine, as I'm soon to be needing it for a commute. How long does an engine swap take with a friend, a spanner and a jack?

Would a mini 998 fit the current gear box?

mini engines are no good. transverse you see. you need in-line. (fan at front, gearbox at back).

Engine swap ~ 2 to 4 hours with a friend....depends how strong he/she is..... Would save time if the front panels can be left on, and the engine lifted out. This can be done with a ladder laid across the engine bay (protect wings) - lash the engine to the ladder - then one each side and lift forward/up and away. Probably best with a third person to guide the lift....Or - undo the front panels and run the engine out the front on the jack..... And no - Mini engine is no use for a Minor.

Thought it probably wouldn't, but I have a mate with a load of rebuilt 998s so I could have got one cheap.

948s are seeming to be quite elusive when I look, only coming up rebuilt 1098s or 948s in unknown running state.