Morris Minor Owners Club

Just followed my daughter home after rescuing her following her flooding the carb/soaking the plugs (why do wimmin think the choke is ALWAYS needed regardless)

Anyway, I noticed the brake lights weren't coming on whilst travelling back, so checked them when we got home.
They are working, but require more pressure than would be used for normal braking.

I've found the switch in the engine bay where its fitted to the three way piece, but I can't fathom out if it's adjustable...I think not, so what could be causing the lights to come on so late?
The unit obviously isn't faulty, so I'm now a bit flummoxed as to what to do next/

I'd still argue it could be the switch. They can be very odd when they fail. When mine went, it kept the brake lights on and they only went out if I stamped on the brake!

I had exactly the same problem last year and it was solved by replacing the switch. Press hard and the brake lights worked, but with normal pressures they did not. Brake lights switches 'ain't wot they used t' be'!

chesney wrote:I'd still argue it could be the switch. They can be very odd when they fail. When mine went, it kept the brake lights on and they only went out if I stamped on the brake!

It doesn't actually look that old tbh, but can't be too sure as it's fairly well protected.
How does the switch actually work I wionder?
Surely if it's not adjustable, it either works or it doesn't?

I believe reading elsewhere, that they can be a bit of a pig to take off without twising the brake pipes.
Whatever, it'll need sorting pronto, 'cus basically, she's driving without at the mo.

Good job I followed her tonight, as the usual light checking on the drive didn't show up the problem, so well done luv for flooding the carb/plugs!!

IslipMinor wrote:I had exactly the same problem last year and it was solved by replacing the switch. Press hard and the brake lights worked, but with normal pressures they did not. Brake lights switches 'ain't wot they used t' be'!

That actually is quite comforting to know.

Mole grips on the union should stop any strain on the brake pipes. They aren't adjustable, they just go funny when they go wrong.

chesney wrote:Mole grips on the union should stop any strain on the brake pipes. They aren't adjustable, they just go funny when they go wrong.

ahh, thanks very much for that Ches'.
I shall order a replacement tonight.

Oh, and do you have to bleed the brakes after it's been fitted btw?

I didn't have to. Just don't use the brakes for 24 hours or so beforehand so there's no pressure in the system.

I've done several without waiting, the residual pressure in the system is tiny.

Tell you summat ey lads. I do wonder how Haynes actually manage to stay in business after taking up 15 minutes of my life trying to find where the brake switch is, and then no decription help or advice as to what you do if goes faulty.

Come in here, and I have all the answers i need within 30

To avoid bleeding the system jack the corner of the chassis and remove the wheel. After removing the old switch lower the jack slightly until brake fluid starts to trickle out of the pipe then screw in the new switch.
Or just change the switch and hope for the best!

mike.perry wrote:To avoid bleeding the system jack the corner of the chassis and remove the wheel. After removing the old switch lower the jack slightly until brake fluid starts to trickle out of the pipe then screw in the new switch.
Or just change the switch and hope for the best!

You didn't get that TOP TIP out of the Haynes manual either!

Tar all of you. Most most helpful and appreciated.

My top tips come from experience not a book

The Mini lads call it (HBOL) Haynes Book of Lies - for good reason. The fact your switch looks 'new' may be the problem - I suspect they are made now for cars with disc brakes and servo - so they don't come on until a higher pressure is used. Try to find a good old switch - or convert to a micro switch operated by the pedal movement - which is how most moderns do the job now. beware also that these switches come in various different threads.......yours is probably (but not certainly) 3/8" BSF. Mini ones are 3/8" UNF and WILL NOT fit...

There are 2 types fitted to the Minor - the early cars with 803/948 engines had a switch with screw terminals, and the 1098 engined cars had 'Lucar' terminals. The actual switch operation is the same in both, and as the 3-way connector that it screws into didn't change part number, I would believe that the switch thread remained the same for all A-Series Minors.

I think some in the past have reported UNF threads - but their cars may have been fitted with later parts of course. It should be BSF - but anyone changing this should just be aware and check before 'screwing it up'....