Front Brake Assy..is this right?

[edd_barker]

Hi all,

Put my all-new 8" front brakes on today, upgrading from 7" so didn't really have anything to compare to. I wonder if anyone could have a gander at these photos and let me know if I've made any obvious mistakes.





Only concerns were:

1. I had to cut the return on the new springs right down to even get them to hook round the back of the pads. I assume this is ok? They look the same as my old springs now.

2. The springs aren't equal, my old ones were. I guessed the longer end goes with the cylinder, one each way?

3. How much grease should I pack into the hubs? I didn't want to over-do it so just smeared some in.

Many thanks!

[bmcecosse]

That looks grand - as long as the springs are not rubbing on the hub. And yes - a smear of grease is enough - too much just leads to churning in the hub. You will find the new brakes MUCH better.

[edd_barker]

Cool thanks for that.

Smear of grease under the pad backbone where it slides on the cylinder?

I don't like the idea of grease anywhere near brake pads, want them to stay clean as long as possible

thanks

[bmcecosse]

Not really necessary - I don't do that!

[les]

I'ts not easy to see but there seems to be more coiled spring at one end of the spring than at the other, the shorter coiled end should be nearest to the opening cylinder piston. That way there is no danger of the coils binding on the cylinder as it operates.
From the picture yours look round the other way.

[mike.perry]

I agree that the springs look to be the wrong way up. Have you wound the adjusters fully off?

[edd_barker]

Hi,

Thanks for the replies, yes I did have my springs round the wrong way. Realised that this morning doing the other side as it was clearly rubbing. Swapped round now.

About to start bleeding, discovered my eezi-bleed has the adaptors for a remote reservoir, so its back to a pipe and jam jar for me, will have to recruit mum I think.

I want to flush all my brake fluid as it is old, do I still use the Haynes method ie. inch in the bottom of the jar. Does this not mean that the MC sucks back up all the crap you're trying to get rid of? I've never done this before.

Thanks,

Edd

[mike.perry]

Adjust the brakes up tight and pump the old fluid out of the longest pipe until you get air bubbles then fill the master cylinder and pump until you get clean fluid and no bubbles. Work your way around the brakes repeating the bleeding.
You may have to go round a couple of times before the brakes feel firm.

[edd_barker]

OK so problems so far...

Did some forum reading and decided to reverse-bleed the system first, then go round the normal way.

I also read that I should loose off the rear adjusters to bleed them properly. Before I bled them they were perfectly adjusted ie. 1 more click and they lock. Now I have loosened, bled and then gone to re-adjust I cannot get them to lock on the adjusters. Looks like there is pad left, I'd say 4-5 mm at least.

##EDIT##

It was just the difference between two cam-clicks was tough to adjust, sorted now!

Have I done something stupid?

Thanks,

Edd

[edd_barker]

Another, possibly unanswerable question...

So I bled the brakes all round, reverse and then correct. Its now sat with a length of wood very firmly wedged between pedal and seat to check for leaks. Had a couple where I guess I hadn't tightened up enough, was really worried about over-doing it but nipped those up and I'll check in the morning.

I don't really have anything to compare brake pedal 'feel' to, had different brakes before and my other vehicles are modern. The travel on mine seems quite long, the brake pedal stops about 2 inches from the floor and there is still some give if I push as hard as I possibly can. However pressing the pedal with only moderate effort locks the front wheels with them jacked up and someone trying to turn them by hand. And a road test locked at least one of the wheels pretty easily, I haven't adjusted the fronts properly yet as I wanted them to bed in a bit, adjusting them brand new didn't seem to work very well, they just sort of rubbed the whole way round, whereas the rears were a definite click-LOCK click-NOT LOCKED.

So the question in there is...what should my brakes feel like! Is there any set criteria I can judge them by ie. wheels locking etc. And what other safety checks can I do? I've never worked on brakes before and I'm quite fond on being alive.

Many thanks,

Edd

[MarkyB]

the rears were a definite click-LOCK click-NOT LOCKED.

How many clicks from horizontal?
Minor brakes rarely work as well as possible when things are new, as you suggest some bedding in is needed.

[myminor1969]

Hi edd i need to do some trunnion work soon and want to replace the brake backplate bolts. Do you know what size they are? I'm thinking 1/4" bolts not sure how long they are. My car is garaged elsewherre so cant check.
Many thanks#Alex

[bmcecosse]

Why would you want to renew the bolts?? They generally live in a world thickly coated with oil/grease and last 'for ever'..........they are however 5/16" - NOT 1/4"

[les]

They are very short, maybe 3/4 inch long.

[bmcecosse]

I have no idea what 'reverse bleeding' is - and why would it be necessary? On second looking , I agree the springs were wrong way round - and I should have noticed.

[les]

Yes Roy, I was becoming concerned!

[stag36587]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but wondered if you guys can help. I may be missing something obvious.

I have replaced the entire braking system - master cylinder, pipes, wheel cylinders, brake shoes, etc. I have adjusted the master cylinder link rod to specification and bled the brakes thoroughly twice. The problem is that I have big pedal travel and no stopping power. No fluid leaks anywhere. Only other issue is that the brake lights aren't working but bearing in mind the electrical provenance of this car, that's no great surprise.

I read in this thread that adjusters need to be fully off before bleeding which I'm not sure I did each time. But is there any other possible reason? Next plan is to ask wife to push the pedal while I feel for resistance at each wheel.

[MarkyB]

Was any air coming out the second time you bled them?
Having someone else to help makes it much easier to see what is going on.

[stag36587]

Got a lots of air out first time and a little air out second time. Just been outside to have a closer look. Rear offside seemed seized - I took drum off and tiny bit of fluid noticeable inside the bleed nipple. Undid bleed nipple very slightly that released the drum and nipped it back up again. No more fluid visible - but also no perceptible movement in the wheel cylinder

[MarkyB]

You need to keep going till no air is coming out at all.
You could also try with the brakes adjusted up tight, I think Roy suggests doing it this way.

Does that rear cylinder move when the pedal is pushed? Leave the other drums on and brakes adjusted tight.