Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi, I'm in the process of replacing the o/s front chassis leg, and the replacement part I've got from ESM doesn't have the cut out for the clutch relay assembly lever thing- how should I get around this?

Maybe you've only bought the short leg, rather than the full one.

It is the shorter length version, the original leg is solid up to where the suspension arm goes into the chassis, I'm still pondering over whether to replace just the section forward of this or up to just past where the clutch relay lever bolts to it- I don't want to do unnecessary extra work if I can avoid it! There is no provision for the mounting fittings of the clutch relay lever at all.

Surely there won't be any provision for the clutch relay lever if you have the short version, as far as i can remember that feature is further along the leg. If you are not renewing as far as the clutch levers, I'm wondering why you need this provision but if you do I think you will need the longer leg.

I've lined it up against the existing one and it does cover/replace the clutch thingy holes- I've just had a look and the repair section overlaps the clutch lever holes by around 2", I have read on the forum someone else had the same problem with the repair section. I originally planned to use only part of the new section, but a lot of guys seem to think its better to replace most of the chassis leg- I haven't read of any one just replacing the section forward of the suspension arm, unless you know different! Any advice is appreciated, I'm not an expert in this area.

What part number did you order and does the part you have, have that number on it.

RP 114R 32", (CHS 940) ESM code 53-02-354 on the sticker.

You are right to repair virtually as much as the repair panel will allow, as there is bound to be debatable areas where ever you decide to stop. I'm surprised having heard your panel passes these holes, that they are missing. As you know from my previous replies I assumed the panel fell short. My mistake. If you can be sure of the correct position, these holes can be added but the two smaller threaded ones will need nuts tacked behind to accept screws. The original setup has a spot welded plate that covered the whole area. The quality of repro panels is going downhill, on the face of it, this appears to be the latest piece of carelessness.

Well you have the right part and I can confirm that the holes are missing. Here you can see the nearside they are missing also. You will need to remove the plate from the old leg, drill and weld it to the new one or make a replacement if you havn't got it. If you need any more pics let me know. Best of luck.
[frame][/frame]

I would suspect that the piece is made to be used on either RHD or LHD, therefor for RHD you have to adapt for the clutch linkage. If using it on LHD, it would be used as is.

Thanks for the replies all, SUE482 inspirational photo of the Moggy underside and great welding, this is where I should be in a few months ( yeah, right). I might only fit the new part up to the suspension leg to avoid unnecessary hassle of the clutch pedal linkage fitting and disturbing suspension setting- has anyone done a repair like this or is it a first? It is annoying that these pattern parts don't appear to even be the same as the originals let alone fit!
Again, any advice is appreciated before cutting commences!

I tend to agree about fitting the strengthening plate to the new leg, rather that my idea of welding two nuts in place. The former would be stronger and more original. It's your call but this modification is worth doing rather than cutting the leg shorter, as you'll probably find plenty of crud internally around the eye bolt. You will be able to see if this is the case when you cut the leg off up to the suspension arm, if it looks rough inside then best to cut more off and fit the complete leg.

Thanks Les, I'll know more when I remove the rotten leg up to where I would ideally like to start the repair, I've removed the pedals and the master cylinder and used the lead light to look right down into the chassis leg, and it is solid, even around the reinforcing part, not much flaking rust or crud evident, which is why I don't want to amputate more leg than I need to.
The n/s chassis leg looks in similar condition with corrosion only at the very end where it joins the cross panel ( which I've got new panels).
Amputating legs? On a Moggy? Unbelievable!

The lack of rust etc sounds very good news, be sure to give the legs an internal covering of wayoyl or similar treatment when all done. Good luck

For me, why cut off more than you need to,if the leg is sound up to or past the eye bolt why give yourself more work,chassis legs are one of the more difficult jobs to do,with a lot of spot weld removal and realignment etc.The font bit is easier,just line it up with the end of the old leg and weld it on,the only fiddle is putting the tie rod plate on.

Wise words kennat, I've measured and cut away the old corroded section up to the reinforcing plate on the existing leg ( the reinforcing plate on the new chassis leg is shorter than the original), and the new sections almost ready to be trimmed, the tierod plates already welded on, just a case of careful measuring and refitting the spot welded u section to the trimmed piece to make a snug fit. When its tacked in place, I might lift the engine bay lower panel and weld inside for good measure.
The leftover new section will be used to make a repair panel for the other side, doesn't look too difficult compared to the drivers side!

The chassis section with the rusted out part removed- there's no way this car should have passed an mot years ago![frame][/frame]

So far so good, trimmed panel ready in place,'U' section inside going into existing chassis leg. Glad I haven't had to remove the whole lot' [frame][/frame]

Good progress, I assume you are using a Mig welder so both metal parts to be welded should be clean from paint and rust. Makes a good job even better. .
Watching with interest.

Hi, the new chassis part is welded and securely in place,after tacking in position and checking all was true and lined up ( the engine mount was bolted in place as was the suspension arm tie rod),I lifted the engine bay apron panel and seam welded the u section internal bit to the new chassis leg making it super strong, and then plug welded through the engine bay apron metal, and the joins seam welded and ground down.
Haven't taken any further pics just yet as I've been busy with the 'other' car and car shows recently, but I will soon as I get the chance, another chunk of metalwork nearly done!