Morris Minor Owners Club

Decided to replace the drivers side floor in Martha, it wasn't too bad but after replacing the inner/outer sills, boxing section etc it seemed a false economy not to replace the floor panels as their relatively cheap. I've got the ones from ESM which include the rear panel that goes under the rear seat and the inner sill floor panel fitted.
Any pointers as to fitting this panel? I didn't expect the rear part to be as high, so I'm not sure how it fits especially in relation to how it fits to the rear of the floor pan behind the seat-does it have to be seam welded or plug welded to the existing floor? Also the inner sill, again whats best- the inner sills quite solid. [frame][/frame]
The pictures upside down unintentionally by the way!

Hi

At the rear the original floor continued underneath the seat support so if your floor is sound there just trim the upstand off and seam weld it in..ditto for the step sill.

Taupe

Thanks Taupe- there is a lot of extra metal on the new part, must be for excessively rusted areas on other Moggys. I noticed the seat support flange spot welded to the floor pan, is it an idea to cut the floor flush with the seat support, I was thinking of plug welding the new flange behind( if possible) the seat support and then seam welding the old floor to the new for extra strength.
I'm gradually getting the hang of putting the car together, the passenger sides got to be easier than the drivers!

It dosent really matter where you cut it as long as it gets seam welded to sound clean metal. Where possible its best to avoid sandwiching old and new panels as we know what grows in between!!! If your floor is rusted further back you can always hammer the rear upstand flat and make use of it to extend the rear floor repair.

Taupe

Hi
I am just on with the same repair however I have cut back to soild metal and seam weded both inside and out with around a 7-8mm over lap of panels is this ok or shold I have cut and gone seam to seam ?

Just will help before I do other side...

Peter

Yes,a lot of body panels are fitted like this from new and just spot welded,but its done with weld through seam sealer between the joint,so that there is no exposed bare metal inside the welded area,Painting it first is pointless(Allthough better than nothing) because the paint just burns off with the welding.If you haven't done that don't frett too much it will still last many many years as long as you get plenty of sealer under and over it.

l

I normally cut the rear upstand off, and the sill step upstand. Neither are part of the floor pan and I wish you could buy floors without. If the sill step needs repair it wants to be thicker metal anyway and can be doen with a nice flange at the bottom to join the floor like the original and the rear upstand, or rear seat base if it needs repair its much neater to repair separately and then join it to the floor likethe original was... The floor pan repair panels were developed many years ago for 'easy repairs' rather than proper restoration, the idea beingthat you just cut outthe rot, shove the new bit down till it won't go any further and weld round it....
The flange on front edge of the front floor pan is all wrong too, it should bend downward, not up so it can be spotwelded to the flange at the bottom of the inner wing.
anyway, moan over, they're not serious problems and we're lucky to have such a range of repair panels available.

When I pulled the old floor out, I noticed that the crossmember was not secured properly to the inner sill, it had the usual patches tacked in place- does anyone have a few pictures of this area and the underneath? I assume the new floor is plug welded to the crossmember from above, but there's no jacking point on my car to carry it through under the sill area, it's been cut off at sometime.