Morris Minor Owners Club

I gather from March 20th there are some changes coming through - dash warning lights will be tested - this includes the Main Beam warning which was not tested before. Speedometers will be checked for 'operational efficiency' but not for accuracy.... Engine mountings will also be inspected - and if you have a trailer socket fitted - it will be checked for correct operation using a special test plug! It's not clear if there any test for a non-standard trailer socket....

Nothing to worry us then seeing as these should all be working anyway.

Thanks for the Info BMC.

Always good to keep up with the new regulations.

All the best,

Ian

Trailer sockets and electrics have been testable items since Jan 1st 2012 but have only been an advisory.
From March 20th these items will have an RfR (reason for refusal)
Just to clarify the actual testing of the socket with an APPROVED trailer socket tester has been and will be applicable to the 13 pin euro sockets ONLY (the ones that twist lock in) wiring on both types of socket is tested. And the socket door on a 7 pin socket missing or not locking the plug in is not testable so not a fail

Speedos cant be checked for working but a check that they are present can be illuminated, that there is a glass or plastic cover over them if that is cracked or broken check it does not foul the needle or can not cause injury.

also wiring check applies not only to battery (which must be secure and not leaking electrolite) but to the whole vehicle to check it's not insecure or inadequately supported so that it is likely to become damaged.
Damaged or deteriorated to the extent that it is likely to cause a short circuit or become detached
Damaged insulation or deteriorated to the extent that bare wiring or connectors are exposed

Heard on the grapevine that from July this year front brake inbalnce is being increased from 25% to 30% BUT WILL APPLY TO FRONT & REAR AXLES!
Service brake efficiency limit is being INCREASED to 58% from 50% Park brakes will remain at 25% for single line system & 16% for a dual line system as it is now

Thanks for the updates dw! How is the 'efficiency' of a Minor braking system determined? Is there a weight to be entered? And is a Tapley test still acceptable?

An RBT (roller brake tester) is used. Ours is ATL (automated test lane) I just enter reg No make, model & mileage drop the front axle in the rollers first. The front axle is weighed and weight recorded, rollers turn and I apply brakes to full then let them of unless either wheel locks a roller or 1 or both wheels are ejected from the rollers.

Still on front axle both rollers start again I apply brakes steadily up to 75% of the first readings and machine records the imbalance as a %.
Move vehicle forward untill rear axle in rollers and repeat testing park brake first then service brake then imbalance. As we're auto the PC calculates the efficiencies and the imbalance, but If we where a manual lane the clacs would be done by observing the figures noting them down then calculating efficiency.

A tapley meter is used on vehicles that either won't fit in the rollers (Unusuall) or that can't be rbt tested as it could damage the vehicle or our equipment. EG 4x4's and vehicles with a limited slip diff.
OR for two days pre booked appointments only if rbt breaks down if not fixed in that time we have to cease testing untill it is

Oh the vehicle weight for the manual calculations on a manual lane is taken from the VSI (vehicle specific information) that is printed off (VT40) it's only auto rbt's that actually weigh the vehicle (kerbside weight)

Thanks for that - very interesting. I've got to the stage of knowing the brake testing weights off the wall chart for Minors better than my tester - he justs asks me now, as I tend to take more than a few Minors in.... cars 940, travellers 950kg and lcvs 920kg if I remember right! Obviously this is an old fashioned MOT station without this new automatic kit that weighs the car. Anything old or weird thats not on the list and we have a dash down the road with the Tapley meter. Great fun.

Incidentally, someone gave me a Tapley meter recently and its not the usual one on a heavy metal base to sit on the floor inside but has a sort of G clamp arrangement to clamp onto the running board of and older style car. Camein a leather case like a pair of binoculars. Never seen one before, probably quite unusual?

Thanks for that dw! In the past my MOT place has said they don't know the weight to use - so they just guessed it. So - to get best chance of a good 'pass' -is it better to load up the vehicle - or to reduce the weight as much as possible? Won't work on your fancy auto/weighing rig - but on a standard rig - better to be heavy, or light??

Since Mog's haven't got a load sensing valve (LSV) on the rear axle then on a manual RBT it would be better UNLADEN because the calculations are: Total brake effort, divided by the VEHICLE WEIGHT. x100 = brake effort as a %

The vsi weights have approx 140Kg added to the actuall manufacturers unladed weight to account for the driver, tools etc & fuel.

But bar far the best way to get a pass is to have the brakes working efficiently On a Mog the parkbrake at 25% can be the fly in the ointment

I had my 4 door saloon mot'd this week, the tester asked for the unladen weight, I gave him 787kg from the drivers handbook. Must be ok as it passed the brake test but failed on a leaking o/s damper an the headlight aim

I'm surprised there's doubt about the weight. 'My' test station has a couple of official wall charts on the wall (oddly enough) behind the desk with all vehicle weights listed. As the tester is usually sat at the desk typing the info in its easier for me to read the weights off the chart and tell him than for him to turn round, and thats the only reason I know them....

And, yes the 25% parkign brake requirement has been a bit marginal at times with various Minors.

So you should have had a "your park brake only just met......" then lol...

I'm told that fullers earth powder in the drum ups your brake efficiency! Never tried it myself

One excellent solution is to fit the 8" rear drums from a Wolseley 1500...... A possibility sometimes used on Minis (to get a really good handbrake for Autotesting) is to extend the operating lever on the brake cylinder. More leverage - but of course a longer handbrake action.

After watching top gear last night, I'm considering towing a log for the parkbrake but think I'll fit a steel gaurd over the rear windows ROFL.........

drivewasher wrote:So you should have had a "your park brake only just met......" then lol...

I'm told that fullers earth powder in the drum ups your brake efficiency! Never tried it myself

More like a friendly verbal advisory along the lines of "that just scraped through!"
Not heard the Fullers earth trick before. Sounds a bit desparate! I'd guess it'd work if theres any brake fluid on the linings and soak up moisture enough to bring the readings up. In a similar manner to the proverbial 'grease gun full of body filler' to sort out the trunnions andother horrors...

Many years ago, I did once take my very shaky Series 1 Land Rover for a test. Knowing how rubbish the brakes were, especially the parking brake (full of gearbox oil from a leaking seal) I left a small boat anchor and a length of rope on the passenger seat and suggested he could toss it out of the window when req... Didn't pass oddly enough but we had a good laugh about it.

IaininTenbury wrote:

drivewasher wrote:So you should have had a "your park brake only just met......" then lol...

I'm told that fullers earth powder in the drum ups your brake efficiency! Never tried it myself

More like a friendly verbal advisory along the lines of "that just scraped through!"
Not heard the Fullers earth trick before. Sounds a bit desparate! I'd guess it'd work if theres any brake fluid on the linings and soak up moisture enough to bring the readings up. In a similar manner to the proverbial 'grease gun full of body filler' to sort out the trunnions andother horrors...

Many years ago, I did once take my very shaky Series 1 Land Rover for a test. Knowing how rubbish the brakes were, especially the parking brake (full of gearbox oil from a leaking seal) I left a small boat anchor and a length of rope on the passenger seat and suggested he could toss it out of the window when req... Didn't pass oddly enough but we had a good laugh about it.

So. The tapley meter wasn't working then!

Just noticed on AA site
Doors

A rear door that cannot be opened from the outside using the relevant control is a new reason for failure.

{ my o/s rear door handle fails to engage latching mechanism, normal method is open front door window , pull on the internal release , wiggle ext door handle , door opens }

Doors must be easy to open and close – hinges, catches and pillars will be inspected.

{ Rear Door above , place backside against nearly closed door , give quick shove to rear } , Front door , catches in both posistions but is not really sitting nicely ( and wears out the four door B post locating latches , as if door is in wrong place , but its not so far as I can see }

presume these will be fails , but the rear door lock is a pain to remove and replace, any ideas for the front as constant adjustment I cannot get nice and smooth in operation. ( I also need to go through my spares box for more of the little chrome screws as they seem to chew up too easily )