Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi,

Just wanting to know the best product to remove surface rust, around boot lid, under bonnet etc?

Thanks

Try something like Hammerite Kurust. Available most motor spares shops, Halfords etc.

The trouble with "Kurust" is that is doesn't work! Scratch the surface after it has turned black and you will find rust underneath.

I used to laboriously remove all rust with a combination of grinder and drill wire brushing , coarse sand paper , 5% phosophoric acid and to get in the remaining pits , a spot blaster. However, in the unit next to my workshop are IPCS who sell top quality German TUV approved Branth Korrux rust inhibiting paint. This is industrial paint that keeps metalwork on bridges over motorways and at supermarkets free of rust, also used on ships and especially industrial tanks etc.

http://brantho-korrux.co.uk/page4.html Their 3 in 1 Branth paint works like Hammerite is supposed to , but never does. A tough single coat in lots of colours!

They also sell "Nitrofest" a true rust inhibiting primer that works really really well as a base for Cellulose paints.

I have no connection with this company, apart from using their products since they moved into the unit next door.

Ive heard jenolite is good? Or vactan?

theres just so many conflicting opinions

Audrey1955 wrote:Ive heard jenolite is good? Or vactan?

theres just so many conflicting opinions

No, neither are any good. Jenolite is phosphoric acid in a gel formulation. Either remove all the rust (wire brishing then blasting) or use an inhibiting paint that actually works!

chickenjohn wrote:

Audrey1955 wrote:Ive heard jenolite is good? Or vactan?

theres just so many conflicting opinions

No, neither are any good. Jenolite is phosphoric acid in a gel formulation. Either remove all the rust (wire brishing then blasting) or use an inhibiting paint that actually works!

What do you meann by inhibiting paint? where would i get this from? Ive looked at rust bullet? is this any good?

http://brantho-korrux.co.uk/page4.html This is the rust inhibiting paint that John is referring to, together with the contact details.

Always thought Hammerite products were a mastery of marketing over product...

I've found jenolite to be the most effective, (so much better than just covering it with a black film, as most products now seem to do).if you apply it, leave for 15 minutes or so, then wire brush and repeat this several times you will eventually get a clean surface, even the pitting can be cleaned with some effort. If the rust is crusty then you will need to chip away first but if that is the case then the metal thickness will probably be too thin and not worth going any further. Time to replace metal!

I also use Dinitrol Converust spray (see link), which seems pretty good to me, mind you if any metal is so bad you can push your fingers through it then, as you say, time to replace. I'm only thinking in terms of surface rust treatment, before it goes too far.

http://www.frost.co.uk/dinitrol-converu ... rosol.html

jagnut66 wrote:Is this Brantho paint overpaintable, as in could I use it as an under coat on my replacement bootlid? Is there any type of car paint we use that it reacts against?

'

chickenjohn wrote:...works really really well as a base for Cellulose paints.

This brochure has some good info too http://brantho-korrux.co.uk/Brochure.pdf

How much does this stuff cost Chickenjohn? Tempting to paint the whole car with it, not just the underside!

For small areas keep it simple, rub down with dampened wet and dry to bright metal.
Feel with fingers for high spots,when it all feels super smooth, Dry off with clean cloth.
Apply a light coat of kurust,leave to dry.The manufacturers recommend 24 hrs, I dont have that amount of patience.
Apply grey primer spray, leave to dry,apply top coat,leave to dry and harden overnight.
Gently Rub down with T cut the following day.
If you are marginally colour blind like me, you will have "good shade perception" if youre really colour blind it always looks good.
Sometimes old paintwork fades and the new spray tin aint a perfect match,you then consider how important that is and if you have enough dosh for a respray, or you can try get a matched aerosol at your local paint shop.
I just persist with the T cut