I have an H Reg Traveller with all the usual bodywork problem The sills are solid but have been done wrong, the outer finishing plate doesnt line up with the door, the inner parts of the sill and part of the floor-pan have been cut away and replaced with plating. The front inner wheelarch is rusted at the back and then plated over, the cross member is coming de-laminated and the jacking point and torsion bar mounting point have been plated over so I cant do fine adjustments to the torsion bars. To name but a few
I'm planning a full restoration.
I learnt to weld at evening classes and have a mig welder and a certificate. The problem is I have very little experience. I can weld two clean plates of steel on a work bench beautifully, but manky old bits of car with rust, under seal and awkward angles is another matter altogether.
I read somewhere that re-skinning doors is a good place for a beginner to start in body work repairs, the only problem is that the doors are in excellent nick
Where is a good place to start? I need a challenge, but not to big a challenge, I think the Americans call it "the Goldilocks Zone" Sills? Wheel arches? The cross-member looks pretty scary and it looks like I need to get one of those roll-over jigs to even think about doing it myself.
Study the problem long and hard before you even think of cutting out the rusty metal.
Pre planning is everything for a good result.
Wire brush away the loose flakes of rust, so you can assess properly.Take photographs from every angle, take measurements from known fixed points.Do it again, if you need to cut out the "known fixed point " because they are rusty too !! Make cardboard cutouts of the bits to be replaced.You can never have enough reference material before you start.It may be too late once you've started.Decide if anything needs bracing and where you are going to brace it, so that it doesn't get in the way of welding and clamping later.
Study the diagrams of the area ( Moss Europe website and the other well know suppliers ) to work out what panels you need to purchase.
It's often quicker and cheaper in the long run, to buy a whole panel and cut it down to the size you need rather than making your own from scratch from sheet steel.
You MUST find sound metal to weld to, it must be cleaned up ( a power file is a good weapon ), degreased ...old paint , underseal, etc.Having prepared, offer up the new panels and work out where to make your cuts for maximum strength.Decide if you are going to joddle the join, butt weld it, plug weld it, etc.Usually the MOT man will want to see a continuous weld.Don't forget to clean up the repair panel back to fresh metal.
Clamp up the pieces of metal, as tight as you can, with your clamps.Double check the measurements.Tack weld in a few spots and remove clamps, if they are in the way of measuring, as a last resort if you are forced to.
Before you get serious with the welding.... have a go with the rusty bits of metal you have cut out.
Don't prepare the metal in anyway and see what happens !!
It won't sound like nice sizzling bacon ( as it does with clean new metal ) it will cough and splutter and spit back at you and the weld will be rubbish !!
BUT if you experience this again on the car, when you are welding, you will know that your preparation was rubbish.Stop...clean up properly and start again.
The reality of bodywork restoration, compared to a pristine learning environment is world's apart.We all learn from our mistakes, myself included.I vividly remember after a few years of welding a very, very rusty car, returning to the first repair section I'd done.I was disgusted with the standard of it and cut it out , doing it all over again.My skills had improved over the months.I thought it was great, first time around, in reality it left a lot to be desired.
DON'T forget to protect any thing flamable in the car, wiring, upholstery, paintwork and especially glass from angle grinding molten metal flying through the air and beads of molten metal from welding.
Fire extinguisher to hand and ideally a mate on watch ( eyes suitably protected ) on fire watch.
Enjoy the experience ..preparation is key.
Buy yourself / obtain a piece of brass bar to use as a heat sink, clamping it behind the metal ( where you have access ).
Bob
You're welcome.......keep the questions coming !!
Only people who " think they know it all " don't ask questions and it's surprising how often there is more than one way to crack a problem.
Bob
John
Not sure who the question was addressed to ...but mine is a very old SIP dual Gas/ No gas MIG welder that's done a few restorations.If you use the " search " facility on the Forum, you will find recommendations for more " recent " welding machines.
Lots of useful advice / tutorial videos onhttp://www.mig-welding.co.uk
Bob
it was an open question. interested to know what people are using.
I have a 150Amp Clarke. using the little rip off gas bottles though. but this has allowed me to try out different types of gas though.
I have found the co2 argon mix is the best as it gives a nice stable arc and just seems cleaner.
CO2 on its own seems dirty in comparison and the arc is alot less consistant.
although I find CO2 lasts longer than the argon CO2 mix.
And for bigger projects I have an old oil cooled arc welder.
Well, I'm moving forward slowly but surely. Using a Clarke 151TE with argoshield and am new also to welding. Things have gone well albeit slowly. No mistakes thus far APART from a badly burnt ankle !! Welding away and feeling pretty pucker about the seam weld that I had just made. Looked own to see my shoe and sock on fire ! So, the moral of the story is to be careful and wear all the right clothing, boots instead of of shoes may have helped me.
As everyone else has said, study, measure, study, measure .... ponder .... study, measure, take photos, ask people with more experience and go for it. I've found the team at Charles Ware Bristol so helpful and they're more than happy to show, explain and guide.
Moving on to seam sealing and painting the floor pan now before tackling the other side of my '56 4 door. A much better side but will take some time me thinks.
