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advice on clutch change please

Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2004 11:17 pm
by sb
clutch went today :cry: and although its my first time at changing one i'm relatively confident..at the moment. :o I've disconnected the bits in the engine bay and removed the four bolts at the rear end of prop shaft and rear axle.
However, pulling the shaft towards the front does not alow the shaft to simply drop out, as the haynes manual states. Shes front wheels up on the ramps so should i lower again or place a screwdriver between the jiont or encourage them with hammer or are there other problems here?

Any other tips on this interesting, pit free, journey would bit great.

in addition has anyone noticed when the gearbox oil is drained the plug, at least mine, is full of gunk and metal, similar to a foul tidal river bank, i'm assuming its metal internal wear. I have no more than a pond coins size worth, although there could be more inside the box, and does this suggest heavy or light wear? the oil is relatively clean.

Further, i recently bought a 1275 midget engine and box although i have'nt had time to test /rebuild them. Following previous threads i know its ok to fit a midget box to the mm 1098 engine, flywheel and clutch so i'm thinknig that if my midget box is ok then i might as well fit it now.

Therefore, i may as well buy a midget clutch kit and fit with the box however, is the midget clutch kit ok with the 1098 engine and flywheel.
Bearing in mind that in the near future i will fit the 1275 engine this would seem a good idear. If not would the 1275 box with a mm clutch kit be ok with the 1275 engine/flywheel.

I often look through the threads in order to gain much info, although its good to be able to put my thoughs direct. In other words i feali bit guilty asking so many questions, although there always seem to be someone who knows the answear..spot on. BIG thanks in advance.

cheers, sb.

Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2004 10:10 am
by Kevin
However, pulling the shaft towards the front does not alow the shaft to simply drop out,
The Propshaft comes out to the back of the car there is a sleeved section into the gearbox, are you looking at the diagrams properly.
Therefore, i may as well buy a midget clutch kit and fit with the box however, is the midget clutch kit ok with the 1098 engine and flywheel.
The flywheel and clutch are not the same size as the Minor one, and you will find there are 6 holes to mount the Midget flywheel and not 4 like the Minor, it will also be advisable to fit one of the hydralic conversions for the clutch if you are going to fit the Midget one as they are stronger and can cause quite a bit of snatching and leave you with a heavy clutch action, so it not quite a straightforward swap.
I have a 1275 Midget engine with a Minor flywheel/clutch and box and its fine.

Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2004 11:59 am
by rayofleamington
However, pulling the shaft towards the front does not alow the shaft to simply drop out
Yes - I think many of us have been ther. You remove the 4 bolts, tug really hard yet nothing moves. You can try a big lever in the joint and/or some light taps with a hammer or if the car is well supported and chocked, apply some engine torque to the prop to free it (DONT use any revs as you don'rt want to spin the prop more than half a turn, and pad the underside of the crosmember hole to prevent damaging the prop when it comes off)

Metal gunge and chips in the drain plug are normal - a each syncho is a wearing part so as the synchro wears more metal particles come off. These should collect in the drain plug so can be velaned away during an oil change. On some boxes there is a magnet in/on the drain plug but I don't think the mogy has one.

Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2004 12:12 am
by Chris Morley
On some boxes there is a magnet in/on the drain plug but I don't think the mogy has one.
My old gearbox did have a magnetic plug, but the replacement didn't. I switched them over as it's very good at collecting the steel fragments.