Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi all,
couple of problems with my recently acquired '65 2 door project. The car had been standing unused outside for 12 months prior to purchase.
First problem: the clutch bites fiercely from fully depressed within a fraction of movement ,however it still disengages o.k.
Second problem: steering is very stiff. Would greasing sort this? Don't want to do any damage by forcing anything.

All input appreciated.
George.

Give it all a good grease and oil, make sure the grease goes into the joints until cleans stuff oozes out around the rubbers.
The flywheel probably has a rusty picture of the clutch plate on it which should wear off with some use.
Grease the clutch operating bits you can get to as well.

That's great. Sounds like a straightforward cure

Is it a standard engine/clutch/box?

You might find it has a diaphram clutch as opposed to the normal spring type, I fitted one to my pick-up, will change back one of these days, as it doesn't feed in as smooth as the latter type.

If it is a diaphram clutch it just needs the relay shaft modifying.

It is a standard engine and box.
Not sure what type of clutch it is, only had car a few days.
What are the visible differences between the two types of clutch, if any?

Unless you have a 1275 engine you will have a normal spring clutch

Is it adjusted up correctlly?

There's every possibility that it's not adjusted correctly. I could use the free spanner I found still attached to one of the brake pipes .
Just about to embark on the welding so will give it all thorough inspection and set up as per book once bodywork sorted.

Leave all the joints soaking in releasing oil

mike.perry wrote:If it is a diaphram clutch it just needs the relay shaft modifying.

Can you give me any details please Mike?

If the steering is stiff even with the front wheels off the ground, it will be best to strip the king pins down for inspection and lubrication. And of course - grease the steering rack!

Do you know anything about modifying the relay shaft Roy? I was hoping to hear more from Mike!

I believe it involves lengthening one of the arms - so the ratio of pedal movement to clutch arm movement is increased - the diaphragm clutch having a relatively short/sharp movement.

Ok thanks, I'll have to get some data on that.

The diaphram clutch is fitted to 1275 engines and is a different diameter, 6.5" on the Midget engine, to the spring clutches fitted to the 918, 803 and 948 engines, 6.25" and the 1098 engine, 7.25".
Don't have any photos to show the difference.

Not too concerned about the differences but as the clutch on my 1098 is the diaphram variety and sometimes a little too eager to engage, just wanted to know more about this 'mod' I now understand is required!