Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi

I have started my car after a period of ten months. It starts like a dream and idles very nicely. I then took it for a spin and only did a couple of blocks before she cut out. The engine turns over well without starting. After a couple of minutes she will start again.

I have to mention that she has no wiring loom yet. I have a positive wire to the fuel pump and to the coil and a wire from the coil to the distributor.

After she cut out I checked the following:
* There was fuel in the carb's canister;
* The fuel pump pumped fuel;
* There was a good spark on the points and a good spark from the coil (replaced coil with a new one without any difference)
* I even tried a replacement electrical fuel pump.

Anyone with any ideas?

Thanks

Hello BoB,

try a new condenser, they can give some strange effects when failing?

Alec

I agree - condenser. And I note changing the coil (why??) didn't help. That's because it's NEVER the coil!

Hi

Thanks - will try it. I changed the coil as the old one got very/very hot - untouchable.

Probably because the points gap is far too small - or the condenser is 'leaking' current......

It is very concerning to read that you took it for a spin with no wiring harness. How are the lights, indicators, brake lights, and wipers working? All of these are essential for the car to be in a road-worthy condition; and if it is not fit to be on the road, then your insurance will be void - you do have insurance don't you How are other road users supposed to know what you're doing? If it's been off the road for 10 months, is it due for a new MOT? It won't get one without everything working properly.

As to the problem mentioned, although there is fuel in the float chamber, is there enough? Does the pump work when the engine stops? It could be a blocked fuel vent that causes a vacuum in the tank (which would affect both pumps), or just a sticking pump - try hitting it initially, and then cleaning the points. When the engine stops, check that you are getting a spark. This will prove whether you need to look at electrics or fuel.

Given what you have already tried, I would try a cheap fuel cap to make sure that there is no vacuum. It could also be crud in the tank, gets sucked up and blocks the pipe. When you stop, the pump stops and the debris falls back, only to get sucked up again a bit later.

simmitc wrote:It is very concerning to read that you took it for a spin with no wiring harness. How are the lights, indicators, brake lights, and wipers working? All of these are essential for the car to be in a road-worthy condition; and if it is not fit to be on the road, then your insurance will be void - you do have insurance don't you How are other road users supposed to know what you're doing? If it's been off the road for 10 months, is it due for a new MOT? It won't get one without everything working properly.

Psstttt.... Look at the registration plate in the picture. It's not a UK based car by the looks of things.

Most countries still have similar requirements, and the risk to others is the same.

Maybe it's fuel vaporisation? If it is, I can vouch for heat shields for the carb and fuel line. Unleaded burns hotter than leaded, so it's a much commoner problem than it used to be.

TTFN

only did a couple of blocks before she cut out

I doubt this counts as hot unless blocks are a very long way apart.
If the carb has been off and not kept upright I'd check that the pipe to the jet is clear, if not I'd beat the petrol pump and see if it gets lively.

Hi
Just to let you guys know that I found the problem. I decided to replace the points and condenser. Just before removing the old points I discovered that the points gap was almost nothing. I therefore set the gap and tried her. Now she runs without any problem. Will however replace the points and condenser in any case as the old ones have seen better days.

I am however very worried about the oil pressure. The oil pressure light doesn’t come on but the fitted oil pressure gauge only shows 15kp when driving at 40mph.

Good catch.
Make sure you have a small amount of grease on the distributor cam, otherwise the rubbing block on the points will wear down very qickly, decreasing the points gap again.
If you replace the points and condensor, save the old ones for back-up.

I did mention the points gap way back on 29 November....... What is '15 kp' in REAL money??? If it's ~ 1.5 Bar then that's ~22 psi - which is indeed miserably low........

I thought "kp" represents kilopascal, 15 kilopascals equals aprox 1 psi.

I make it 2.1 psi if kp is as katy says,tho it might be KPA

KP is I think is a measure of gas pressure ?????? ,getting older every day never seen it on a car gauge

2.1 psi won't even move the needle........it just can't be that low....... Why can't people just stick to PROPER units.....???