Morris Minor Owners Club

Just been out for a drive and over the space of about 15 miles I've gone from thinking how well the car was behaving, to not being able to change gear. I can grind the gears beautifully, and if i do slam it in to first, the cars moves even with the clutch fully down. The clutch has also got extremely heavy.

The clutch was new almost exactly 1 year (4000 miles) ago, and I always put it in neutral when sitting at lights etc. The free play is just over an inch. The return spring is present and correct.

I'm guessing the linkage is at fault. I'll be investigating further later today, but until then any ideas would be welcome!

Thanks in advance.

Tom

The operating fork could be fractured and bending under load.

Hi, Tom and Maria,

Looks like the gear box needs removed for further investigation.

good luck

roy.

Took it all to bits earlier, the old rubber bush had crumbled like a disappointing pack of polos. Luckily I had the right spares and we're back on the road.

Thanks for the replies.

Tom

Great success! That was easy!

Ditch the soft Morris rubber bush and fit a Landrover Series shock absorber mounting bush instead. Taper and centre hole are the same size. Just trim length to suit and problem solved.

Rights, so after boasting about how the new linkage parts solved the problem, it's back again.

The new parts did fix things, but only for about twenty miles or so. I've just been towed home from Dartmoor. Very embarrassing.

Gradually the clutch became less and less effective until I couldn't disengage at all. This was accompanied by a definite jangling noise, so I'm guessing the springs on the 1 year old pressure plate have broken or fallen off. A look inside through the inspection holes shows that the graphite bearing on the fork is being thrown around a great deal when the pedal is pressed. I'll be taking the engine out tomorrow to hopefully fix the problem, and will report back on what I find.

Has anyone else had this happen?

Tom

Your diagnosis sounds good, wasn't there a bad batch of clutch covers recently?
You may be able to get it replaced, a year is no time at all to fail.

Let's see some pictures when you open it up........

Good luck with this problem.
With just nearly one year since replacement parts were fitted,lets hope you still have the receipts etc;
Whatever the problem I would also consider fitting a replacement clutch release thrust bearing including retaining clips.

Roy

After an exhausting day I'm tantalisingly close to seeing what the problem is. Decided to remove the box rather than the engine as the lifting tackle was being used elsewhere. Everything was undone and ready to be pulled apart after an hour, with the exception of the prop shaft bolts. I've spent the rest of the day trying to shift them, have broken two spanners and used about half a can of gas for the blowtorch. The trouble is that I can't plug anything in where the car is parked. God knows when they were last undone.

I think I'll be borrowing a battery drill from work tomorrow to get them out. Very frustrating.

I'd be grateful for any tips on attacking them that people can suggest, just in case the drill doesn't work.

Tom

Forgive me if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs but you need to hold the bolts steady and undo the nut, generally at the back.
The other way takes an enormous amount of force as you have found.

I wish I could move either! The bolts and the nuts are both locked sold, I can't even get them to turn in their holes.

They aren't usually that hard to do, the proper ring spanner and a sharp whack with a hammer gets them on the move.

This is one of the reasons you DON'T pull the gearbox to get at the clutch. No need for lifting gear - just sit the engine on a trolley jack (or even a pile of good solid timber) and slide it forward and twist it round within the engine bay....no lifting required. Remove the towers - easy 4 bolts each side. The prop bolts are BSF - so you need 1/4" Whit ring spanners..... The worst is yet to come -when you struggle to get the gearbox past the rack - even more 'fun' getting it back in again - and without damaging the clutch springs!! I would STOP now - and just pull the engine forward.

Got the prop shaft free this evening, two bolts undid properly, I took pleasure in drilling the nasty two out. I'm off work Thursday and Friday, so should have the results (and pictures) of the offending article then. Wsh me luck.

Good luck - you need it! And - make sure you get the correct new bolts/nuts to put back in that prop flange.

I'll be ordering some from esm tomorrow.

I gather getting the box out is a case of twist and pull?any tips would be useful, ill be doing it on my own, so was thinking I'd get a trolley jack underneath to take the weight, that or a strap around my back to keep my hands free...

I know the engine out way is easier, but I did that last time and wouldn't want to be bored.

Good grief - have you taken the floor out too??? Yes - pull and twist but it must remain supported or it will dmage the clutch - which is probably already damaged o course........ The difficult part is the refitting......

Got the pressure plates swapped over today. The old one was indeed broken; one of the (cast?) arms which acts as a lever to release the main plate had cracked, and the pivot pin holding it in place had snapped. I guess it was only a matter of time before it completely broke off. Tempted to send it back to the supplier and ask for a refund, as it isn't even a year old.

I took bmcecosse's good advice and took the engine out instead of the gearbox. didn't have a hoist to used a trolley jack and a bit of wood under the sump. it was a bit of a struggle (i was on my own, and am not a big chap) but everything is back together now with the exception of a few hoses and the exhaust. I'll sort them tomorrow, ran out of daylight today.

The clutch feels fine, but i won't be able to tell for sure until I go for a test drive tomorrow.

Fingers crossed for a happy ending.