Morris Minor Owners Club

Presently restoring a traveller and wish to paint suspension parts, pedals, prop shaft etc. Just wondering what the best paint to deal with these components would be. Would I be laughed out of town for using smooth Hammerite?
Thanks in advance
Russ

Por 15 is great stuff for this.
http://www.por15.com/

The thick cast stuff, such as suspension parts, drums, rear axle etc I cleaned and scrubbed in turps then used black smoothrite. they came up really well and fairly cheap only using two small tins.

The underside of the car itself I used POR-15... more expensive and it took longer due to the prep required, but gives a very hard durable finish.

Smooth hammerite is ok if you're selective, many don't like it, and perhaps not for the prop, as being quite a 'heavy' paint may spoil the balance if not put on evenly

I've painted a couple of parts in smooth Hammerite and although they look clean and new, the're a bit too glossy in my opinion and just wondered if there was a satin alternative - something closer to how they would have looked when they left the factory?

Halfords do tins of high temperature paint in satin, gloss and matt black. I have found it covers well, dries fairly quickly and you can clean brushes with white spirit. Similar prices to Hammerite.

It sounds like a combination of the POR-15 and satin Hammerite might well be the ticket. Many thanks to all
Russ

POR-15 is good, but expensive and can flake if not prepped/applied correctly.

Hammerite is good and in my opinion gloss is best for the parts you wish to paint as any future rust/chips will show up a lot more clearly than had you painted them matt.

Hammerite and smoothrite does not work as advertised. The rust comes back in a few years.

I've never used POR15 but have recently started using Brantho Korrux 3 in 1. Mainly because the UK importer is next door to my workshop!

It is a really nice to use paint and promises 15 year anti rust protection even in marine environments even on already rusted surfaces. TUV approved as well.

http://brantho-korrux.co.uk/page4.html

By the way, Finnegans never could get Hammerite into the German market as the Germans tested it and found it does not work as advertised.

An interesting product there John! Definitely specialist, I'll have to check it out - thanks for the link!

What sort of price is Brantho Korrux 3 in 1?

http://www.keep-your-car.com/epages/629 ... 451&Page=3

1 l = 29.33 €

Thanks

jollyroger wrote:What sort of price is Brantho Korrux 3 in 1?

My workshop neighbours; IPCS lts sell 750 ml tins for £21, which is actually cheaper than buying Hammerite by the 250ml tin, although a 750ml smoothrite tin is cheaper at £18, but I'd rather pay £3 extra for a product that actually works!

Although postage might be applicable to this if you are not in the same area. BTW this is the paint you see protecting high value structrures for years such as huge oil storage tanks, metal road bridges and even Trawlers!

Brantho-Korrux
”3 in 1”
Imported in the United Kingdom by:
I NDEPENDENT
P ROTECTIVE
C OATINGS
S ERVICES LTD.
Description:
Brantho-Korrux "3 in 1" is a 1-component, semigloss coating showing very good adhesion properties
and elasticity. Low solvent content, active rustinhibitive pigments, excellent hiding power, both
suitable as a primer or a finish. Excellent resistance
properties, German approval for food contact, can be
applied on practically all types of substrate, good
filling properties, good edge covering and fast drying.
Meets the requirements of DIN EN ISO 12944 and
DIN 55928.
Recommended areas of application:
Protection against corrosion of constructions,
machines and transport vehicles made from iron,
steel, stainless steel, aluminium, zinc (galvanised) and
other non-ferric metals, hard plastics, etc. in rural,
urban, industrial and maritime areas. As a protective
coating for new construction or maintenance, both
primer and topcoat, as a primer for 1-component
finishes and most 2-component finishes. Ideal for
constructions built from several types of material.
As a substitute for toxic red-lead (tested by the
German Railroad authorities), as a substitute for
environmental unfriendly PVC /Chl. Rubber coatings
(IKS tested), partly as a substitute for epoxy coatings
and complicated acrylics and as a high performance
alternative for alkyd coatings.
Practical examples:
For example road-gritters, sea containers, hightension towers, lorry chassis’s, building equipment,
bridges, cranes, vessels, boats, cladding (both coated
or bare), railway stations, platform structures, fences,
gates, production halls, pipelines, storage tanks,
gutters, cooling equipment, and many other objects.

That should earn you a few tins John!

Regarding POR-15. I have used this, was impressed/concerned about its sticking power on human flesh! Doesn't shift with thinners once it starts hardening (very quickly on skin )
Found it holds very well on rusted/rough surfaces, but peels off new metal (may be not if you use the associated and similarly expensive primer). Also brushes rendered pretty much useless ( maybe not so if you use the similarly expensive brush cleaner, etc etc!). Certainly a very high VOC product, gives blinding headaches even used in fresh air underneath the car!

Hammerite- unless you can buy some of the pre-VOC clampdown (2010?) version forget it. The modern stuff is just like any black solvent based paint. The "proper" stuff used to string from the brush as you applied it, could not be re-brushed to tidy up runs etc, and again, stunk to high heaven! Just bought some rusty old-stock tins, and there is no comparison with the latterday product!

Best thing I have used so far on sheet metal underside has been Tetrosyl, slow setting, and stays pliable when set.

I'm pretty sure Hammerite tins used to indicate that it shouldn't be over painted with second coat for 6 weeks if not done within 24 hours. It doesn't say that anymore!

Never had any problems with hammerite/smoothrite. Provided the surfaces to be painted were free of grease, flakey material, dust and were keyed correctly.

les wrote:That should earn you a few tins John!

I've earnt a few tins by being a helpful neighbour! ;-)

I'm also trying their "Nitrofest" primer at the moment which seems very thick but sprays well with very little overspray. I have to test that one a bit more to see how it goes. In fact I'm tempted to do a "Practical classics" style product test. Compare various products painted onto rusty and clean steel samples and screw them to the wall outside the workshop and see how they weather the elements over the winter.

That would be interesting - go for it! Include a rusty sheet sprayed only with waxoyl - since some believe it has magical rust killing properties.