Morris Minor Owners Club

hi there, i am about to jack up the front first then the back in the garage to do the cleaning and undersealing of a morris two door saloon. i wanted to get some opinions on where to jack it up to minimise damage to obviously, quite an old car.

for the front i was going to plank up on the chassis legs and put axle stands under there, and under the axles on the back, does anyone have any opinions and suggestions?

many thanks.

I jack the front under the front crossmember. I have a perfectly shaped piece of wood with a small groove down its middle which helps locate the crossmember, stopping the car from slipping off the wood. Then axle stands with blocks of wood on the chassis legs as near to the eyebolts as practicably possible.

On the rear, I jack without wood under the centre of the axle. The shape of it locates perfectly into the cup of the jack. Then axle stands (again without wood) on the axle itself, as close to the wheels as practicably possible.

Be sure to put any removed wheels under the car to protect you if the car should drop off the stands.

I jack under each chassis leg individually, just be careful to use a nice block of wood as a load spreader.

as above always use a good block of wood to support the chassis leg and avoid damage.... on show cars where the chassis legs are painted smooth, i use block of wood with carpet glued to it so it doesnt mark the paint, sad i no... but how else can you do it if you dont want the paint marking!

that's a good tip, what size blocks of wood do you use tubby? i used to use 5" by 4" laminated layers of fibreboard on top of the axle stands on the chassis legs, do you think this is not enough to spread the load or should that be alright?

Places not to jack up on the Series MM/II
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Do not use the central jacking point under the M1000

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Jacking point bracket as used on GPO vans

My gpo bracket is round the other way.

I think mine is correct, the top of the bottle jack sits between the bars

mike.perry wrote:Places not to jack up on the Series MM/II
Do not use the central jacking point under the M1000

Otherwise known as a very effective test of innerwing, sill and rear chassis leg integrity...
I've no issues with using the centre crossmember end jacking point on a Minor 1000, but it would have to be on a car I know what the structure is like...
I had to use the MM/Series2 jack on the front of my convertible a while back as I was stuck with a puncture I'd borrowed the scissor jack for another job so only had the original one. A bit creaky and a lot scary but it worked May need to plan some metalwork in that area soon...

In a real world workshop situation, as other folk have said, rear axle, front suspension, front crossmember (if you're confident about it - though if its shaky it wants replacing anyway).

mike.perry wrote:I think mine is correct, the top of the bottle jack sits between the bars

I see your point Mike, and have often wondered. My thinking was that the plate would protect the lower arms from the jack head and the nuts would offer some form of location but by no means certain this is the intention.

I had a set of brackets on my ex GPO van 45 years ago, I fitted a set from a GPO van in the scrappy to my Series MM and I had a set made for my Traveller. A useful modification.

many thanks for your advice and pictures, what sort of size wood is adequate to spread the load? i use a bit of 3" x 5" laminated fibreboard but is this too small on the front chassis legs with axle stands? on the back it's easy i just jack up the axles nearest to the wheels i can get, or under the diff.

I use the trolley jack with a wooden block under the chassis front corner plate and position the axle stands under the lower suspension arms as close to the chassis as poss. - unless I am stripping the front suspension