excess fuel float miby ?

[MriavGraves]

olive my 69 moggy has an excess fuel problem the car has bin running great for weeks now after help from you guys tunning carb with lifting pin, she is used daily and does about 150 - 200 miles a week. i was getting 35mpg now doing 24mpg the fault has happened slowly over this week and today was the worse i thought i was not going to make it home the slight hill i go up every day at 50mph with a little bit more gas she could not make it up it was crawling at 10 - 15 and miss firing loss power get it back loss power so turned of a19 and went home a easy way but she was still missing and backfiring when giving more gas.

iv checked piston for clonk both choke in and choke out both clonks the same.
took spark plugs out black as midnight, cleaned them up and still the same
replaced spark plugs with new set and adjusted gap to 20thou car running slightly better but still slight miss and backfire sounds and feels like it was when i noticed something was wrong
i have adjusted the mix nut right up to the most lean position wont turn no more and its to rich if you pull choke out it stalls when you are driving and new plugs are black as night

Before i pull carb of so i can blow threw fuel intake with my mouth to see if float needle is cutting of supply

1 can i use a home made gasket (cereal packet) for carb to block untill i get new one sorted out
2 your opinion here do you think its the float iv bin told these dont go wrong if you leave them alone

[bmcecosse]

When you switch on the IGN - does the fuel pump tick away continuously ??

[MarkyB]

While you are at it make sure the air filter is clean and that the choke is returning to the off position.

[linearaudio]

It's an ignition problem. Put a new condensor on and clean/reset the points. If not that, then the coil is on the way out.
Note: "It's never the coil", but a month ago mine failed with just those symptoms. If you have a compromised spark, then the slightest hint of rich mixture(choke) or load (going uphill) will make it misfire like fury>

[bmcecosse]

Provided the fuel pump is not ticking - I agree - it will be an ignition problem, but it IS NEVER the coil...... points/condenser/low volts wire/rotor arm/dizzy cap in that order. This is why I carry a complete known working dizzy. Fits in a few minutes - and eliminates all the above at a stroke.

[linearaudio]

"IT IS NEVER THE COIL"!!
I agree totally, except for the occasions when it is the coil.....

[chesney]

1 can i use a home made gasket (cereal packet) for carb to block untill i get new one sorted out

You mean carb to manifold?
That's what I did 3 months ago. Got the proper one now, but haven't seen the need to swap it yet (if it ain't broke don't fix it)

[MriavGraves]

air filter is clean new about 1200 miles ago, fuel pump aint clicking away might click once just after turning key but thats it. choke is off fast idel screw aint touching cam and (forgot proper name) the thing the needle gos in is hard up against base of carb(have graves disease probs with memory sorry). we do have spark at spark plug end of lead got our lass to turn key wilist i touch the block but before i got a chance she turn key and i took the shock from lead not spark plug just the lead i felt it but not like what iv had in the past in the past 20 year a goish cant remember car but that was realy sore and cosed me to pull arm away and drop the lead today i took about 3 or 4 jolts and never droped lead. I will try new points and condenser tomorrow hope local car part shop have points lol thanks for help everone will let u know outcome

[bmcecosse]

Well it obviously is sparking - but a new set of HT leads could be a good idea - since they are leaking. The severity of the jolt depends on what shoes you are wearing and humidity level etc .

[MriavGraves]

took diss cap to get to points and this is what i found no points (photo) or are the be hind plate[frame][/frame]

[MriavGraves]

googled carb e0 d-57 2 which is on box and say its and electric ignitor would i need to replace this ?

[MriavGraves]

iv fixed her and told her if she behaves like that again im going to hit her with tree branch(faulty towers if you not old enough) the moral here is even if you think the fault is not something is to check it i ruled out filter cos i serviced it 1350miles ago and i wanted to check the jet for ware due to the fact the jet and needle was not set proper when i bought car took of filter and it was clogged with soot under further examination i have a small leek on exhaust manifold and cone filter sucks warm air from there hence clogged thanks again for everyone's input

[bmcecosse]

Well done - but I suspect it will be oil fume not soot that is blocking the filter.......

[linearaudio]

googled carb e0 d-57 2 which is on box and say its and electric ignitor would i need to replace this ?

It will be the coil!!!
If it has an electronic ignition, then the "ignitor" tends to just die, not go dodgy.
However, they also tend to put out a fiercer spark, so replace leads, and get a DECENT replacement rotor arm and distributor cap. This is good engine-husbandry anyway, and if it doesn't by any chance sort the problem, then you have a spare set to keep in the boot!!
Willow is particularly whippy, by the way

[MriavGraves]

bin learning bout ignitor if any one interested its an electronic ignition that adjust spark at mid and high revs seams simple to fit turn engine till points open fully take points and condenser out replace ignitor where point were place electronic sleeve over distributor cam and put rotar arm on there's no adjustment on the ignitore 11model 91181 positive earth between box and sleeve part from at the start with points the ignitor 1 and 111 have a gap low to high tolerance between box and sleeve but that is achieved by either moving it like points or adding a shim to the distributor cam

[MarkyB]

bin learning bout ignitor if any one interested its an electronic ignition that adjust spark at mid and high revs seams simple to fit turn engine till points open fully take points and condenser out replace ignitor where point were place electronic sleeve over distributor cam and put rotar arm on there's no adjustment on the ignitore 11model 91181 positive earth between box and sleeve part from at the start with points the ignitor 1 and 111 have a gap low to high tolerance between box and sleeve but that is achieved by either moving it like points or adding a shim to the distributor cam

I'm interested but failing to understand quite what you are suggesting.

[MriavGraves]

i know theres peoples that will say must be points and i can understand that but if your not like that this ignitor in my dizy is marvelous no open and closing of point worrying bout gap. theres no moving parts with this ignitor part from sleeve that fits under rotar arm, just take points condenser out replace with ignitor and sleeve use own rotor arm two wires thats all one to coil and one ignition live and it adjust the dwell at diffrent revs wondering if any one else got one and whats it like compared to points i was getting 35mpg before clogged air filter what do points get ? and its positive earth

[bmcecosse]

Electronic ignition is fine - till it goes wrong. It can't make the slightest difference to fuel economy - provided the points were correctly adjusted of course. A spark is a spark - that's all the engine needs.......