Morris Minor Owners Club

Moving on from my previous post about the noise when I first drive the car out of m garage I decided to strip out the off side front suspension as I was convinced that was where the noise was coming. I read up on the technical club CD on how to strip out the parts and all went well , I made up a puller for the hub and a few hours later everything was apart.The top trunnion to kingpin is fine , The bottom unit has some wear and the bronze rear bush within it is worn ,the fulcrum pin is also worn the front bronze bush is OK so I intend to buy a new bottom trunion complete.As previously recomended I will fit Poly bushes to the top trunnion.Now for the problem the front eyebolt bushes need replacing ,but no matter what I try I cannot get the torsion bar to move backwards at all to get access to the rear eyebolt bush.The other strange thing is according to the instructions a 3 mm C washer should be fitted to the rear torsion bar location I cannot see this at all .I have left the parts soaking in WD and Eazit overnight.So my question is if I still cannot move the torsion bar I assume because it is seized on the front splines is it feasable to try and move the rear retaining lever forward on the splines to then allow the torsion bar/front arm to move back I assume the rear nut and lever nut/bolt will have to be removed and also the vernier torsion plate .If all else fails and I can only fit a new eyebolt front bush should I still fit a POLY type or stick to rubber

Forget the C washer etc..... the front arm WILL move - just soak it all in release oil (WD40 is NOT a release oil) - and apply a wee bit of heat if necessary. And then a good solid clunk with a 'wee heavy' club hammer will do the job... DO NOT get involved with the rear mounting of the T bar..

Thanks

Give it the clunks close to the torsion bar, once you get some movement, more penetrating oil and feel free to tap it the other way to help get the oil where it needs to go.
As you can only whack one side it may well help to pull the end of the suspension arm in the opposite direction to the whacks, this helps equalise the force and bring it off straight.

And only move it just far enough - not right off the splines. At least, not if you want to keep the same suspension height!