Morris Minor Owners Club

I refuse to be beaten
The photo shows what I believe is the 10 volts regulated connection for wiring to my temp gauge.
I tried the connections and in all cases get a high reading typical I believe of an unregulated supply.
Am I in the wrong place to wire the thing or is there another problem?
Can anyone help please?
thanks.
Dick.[frame][/frame]

Connect to the same terminal as goes to the fuel gauge. You can't really measure the stabilised voltage - may see it as a pulse as the bi-metal strip makes and breaks.

Thanks Roy, I shall give it another whirl in the morning, rain permitting.

bmcecosse wrote:Connect to the same terminal as goes to the fuel gauge. You can't really measure the stabilised voltage - may see it as a pulse as the bi-metal strip makes and breaks.

Roy, gave it a try this morning, the second photo shows the blue spade and the terminal I have connected it to which is a spare spade connector twinned to the fuel gauge spade, the nett result is shown on the photo of the gauge,with a cold running engine.
I am still nonplussed really,as the fuel gauge works fine I assume its not a dodgy voltage regulator?
Oil pressure looks good though.I wish Id taken more notice in the RAE courses.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Yippee! Thanks for the info Roy.
For anyone thats interested it turns out that the Smiths gauge is in fact polarity conscious, I switched the terminals on the back of the gauge in desperation and it works fine and dandy.
As a point of interest to anyone remotely thinking of fitting a temp and oil pressure gauge there are two ready drilled holes under the dash of a 1098 to the right of the steering column that match the bracket supplied with the smiths kit.
I like them half hidden, to me it means I can have the modern accessories without spoiling the look of the original dash.
Off for a run now [frame][/frame]

I'm very surprised at the 'polarity' comment..... When you switch on - does the needle slowly creep up to the mark - or does it go pretty much straight up?

bmcecosse wrote:I'm very surprised at the 'polarity' comment..... When you switch on - does the needle slowly creep up to the mark - or does it go pretty much straight up?

It rises quite gently, in sinc I hope with the rising temperature of the engine, the photo attached shows the temp when hot, I thought this may be a little high,let me know what you think Roy.
I have in the course of ownership replaced the water pump, stat, rad cap,radiator and even fitted an extra fan blade.[frame][/frame]

Ah -so not polarity conscious - since it is a 'hot wire' instrument. That does look a bit too hot - is that with the engine running , or a reading taken after a run? Maybe quite a high setting thermostat in the engine? But also - could be incorrect value sensor in the engine..........

bmcecosse wrote:Ah -so not polarity conscious - since it is a 'hot wire' instrument. That does look a bit too hot - is that with the engine running , or a reading taken after a run? Maybe quite a high setting thermostat in the engine? But also - could be incorrect value sensor in the engine..........

Hot wire, very good.
The latter rather than the former I hope, I dont know what value the sensor is, what would you recommend?
That reading is after a run and reads pretty much the same if the car is left to idle on the drive.
The thermostat is opening ok and the top hose gets warm, the lower hose is very cool as is the base of the rad, the top of the rad being hot.
If I remove the rad cap at this point I get a little steam, but thats all, no great whoosh of hot water or steam.
The rad cap is working because after a run I get a little drop of water from the overflow pipe in the engine bay.

Well - just enjoy! Does the heater work well?

bmcecosse wrote:Well - just enjoy! Does the heater work well?

This is the whole crux isnt it?
The more you have the more you have to fret over,I believe the temperature is good but prefer to be panicked by an incorrect reading on a gauge that to all intents and purposes is for whatever reason not doing its bit.
I shall pursue the gauge issue but will ignore its reading I think, the oil pressure gauge has proved to be a good indicator of overheating anyway, prior to my fitting a new radiator,extreme heat it would appear thins out the oil to such an extent the pressure drops noticeably.
And yes the heater works fine, i may test the sender, is there an easy homebrew way of doing this?

Thanks for the attention once again,

The sender is working - just may be too low resistance. Easiest way to check everything is with a thermometer.....take the car out for a run to working temp - leave it idling - remove the cap (careful!) and stick a thermo in the water. Compare readings.... If your gauge is too high relative to the thermo - you can add a few ohms resistance in the lead to the sensor till it reads as you wish!

bmcecosse wrote:The sender is working - just may be too low resistance. Easiest way to check everything is with a thermometer.....take the car out for a run to working temp - leave it idling - remove the cap (careful!) and stick a thermo in the water. Compare readings.... If your gauge is too high relative to the thermo - you can add a few ohms resistance in the lead to the sensor till it reads as you wish!

I shall try that,I think the missus has a good thermometer, in the same baking equipment cupboard I found the funnel for oil changes, what the eyes dont see the heart cant grieve over.

The rusty/oily scum on the baking thermo may just be a give-away........ You're living dangerously.........

Roy, I'm living dangerously when she cooks, the oil may be an improvement.

No problem now BMC, the blessed thing has expired completely, the gauge not the car I hasten to add.
Perhaps the lead has fallen from the back of the speedo, I shall check another day, as today the the Lady of the house and I took the Morris for a jaunt to Ormesby Hall, the journey proving thoroughly uneventful, as the cooling system now works like a dream.So I didn't need a temperature gauge after all.

Just looking at Moggiethou's pic of the voltage stab. I would like to also install a Smith's temp. Before I start dismantling the dash ... does a 1957 Series II 803 cc split-screen have a voltage stabiliser on the rear of the speedo at 12oclock that I will be able to use? ... great pic by the way and I love the comment about the wife's cooking . I tried the same comment but I spent a week in rehab.

I have the Smiths electric temperature gauge fitted and was worried about the above 90 reading at normal working temperature. I fitted a second, independent voltage regulator. It made no difference. I changed the thermostat, no difference. I then bought an Infra red thermometer that suggests that my guage overreads by approx. 15 degrees.

I am using the sender supplied by Holden's . I will try a replacement at some stage.

Rabbitt wrote: ↑Wed Jun 13, 2018 12:45 am Before I start dismantling the dash ... does a 1957 Series II 803 cc split-screen have a voltage stabiliser on the rear of the speedo at 12oclock that I will be able to use? ...

If you've got a gold-faced Speedo then probably no voltage stabiliser. Only factory-fit on black-faced Speedo IIRC.