Morris Minor Owners Club

hi, ive replaced my sump gasket twice now and both times after a few days it has started leaking all over my front drive, as i was busy and realy feed up with this leak (again) i have stuffed some rolled up paper towling between the rear of the sump and the rear engine plate, i know some people will be howling in horror at this, but so far after three weeks no oil on the drive, and if it does start again, i can replace it in about 2 minutes, dont even need to jack up the car, this was going to be a very temporary repair, but !!!!!, regards steve

u need to fit the gasket properly

It's your car - if you are happy with that cure - carry on!

I did the same after replacing the gasket and cork seals twice to no avail. I used some rolled up rags. My leaks wasn't too bad but it saves having to carry a drip tray around.

Did you smear the gaskets with grease and cut the cork strips to the correct length? Then after the first couple of engine runs did you re-tighten all the bolts (heat and vibration make them loosen up slightly)?

Did you work diagonally tightening up the sump bolts (most important for an even fit).

Really shouldn't be leaking like that if at all!

Yeah did all that - twice. They all leak, that cork seal around the rear of the sump is just not sufficient. I only have a few drips but it's enough to upset people if I park on their driveways.

That's not true - they do NOT 'ALL' leak. Done correctly with sufficient pre-load on the cork - it works perfectly well.

i done mine with cork gaskets and no leak

Oh well I tried twice and did everything very carefully and correctly. Couldn't be shagged trying it again. Most of the cars I know leak a little from the rear sump gasket

I'm getting ready to go into my sump for the same reason.
Did I read somewhere that the semi circular cork seals have to soak in oil for a day prior to installation, or do they go in dry?
Thanks
David

Some say soak them in water. I have always just used them as they come - but trimmed to a GOOD overlength......

Dry it will be,
David

Use the rubber seals-they are much better.
Regards
Declan

Yeah but they don't fit the 803 sumps

David53 wrote:Yeah but they don't fit the 803 sumps

How did you get on on your recent long drive? I mean performance, fuel and oil consumption etc.

I don't think mine ever bettered 22 mpg despite doing all I could.

Well, I never take much notice of the fuel consumption I'm afraid. I stick about $20 worth in at the beginning and it gets me a fair way that's all I know! I suspect it would be in the region of 35 mpg but I really have no clue She is running well now, cruises at around 45-50 mph and climbs well if given a bit of welly at the base of the hill.

David53 wrote:Yeah but they don't fit the 803 sumps

David,
Are you sure about that?
ESM lists the 803 sump as being the same as the 948/1098.
http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... b67a96ddad
If that is the case it will fit.
Regards
Declan

Only if you cut them down.......... Really really not necessary to fit rubber seals

You have to trim them for the 1098 cc too-but they do work. I could never get the cork seals to work on mine and the rubber worked first go... but we've had all this before.
Regards
Declan

Well, might be worth a try I guess. But I have found that quite often suppliers will list a part as beng suitable for the 803 or MM (of which mine is the combination being a very early Series II) when n actual fact they are not. Most recent example was the front spring hanger pin for the rear suspension. The early cars had a head much smaller than the later ones, but it was listed as fitting all cars. But I might grab a rubber gasket and give it a go. The oil drips are tiresome.