Morris Minor Owners Club

I'm trying to remove my top and bottom trunnions for inspection. After removing all the dirt and grease it would appear the king pin and trunions are relatively new there's still black paint on the kingpin and new tab washers on the nut on top trunion reason I'm removing is a clunk from the front near side is it possible that the trunions have not been fitted properly maybe not tight eneogh up the thread and will a good crack with a hammer release the top trunion
Any help gratefully received

Why would it need a crack with a hammer? It just unscrews......no hammer required. Clunk is usually the inner bushings on the lower suspension arm - but do also check the bolts for the damper are nice and tight......

Just had it all in bits the king pin and trunions have all been replaced and are in excellent condition. Any ideas where to look next for this clunk / rattle ,the arm of the damper is moving nicely up and down , should I try draining and filling with fresh oil

As above - inner bushes on lower suspension arm... Yes - drain damper and fill with SAE 40 or 50 (NOT 10W 40 or 20W50)

Thanks Roy for the info. The bushes you refer to on the lower suspension arm are these the ones on the lower trunion or on the chassis Thanks

The INNER bushes on the lower arm - so the ones on the eyebolt which does indeed bolt through the chassis leg. Check also the chassis leg to make sure it's not cracked...... The bushes are best replaced with polyurethane - the pin may need renewing too if the bushes have been gone for a while and there has been metal to metal contact.

Many thanks will have a go tonight

Hi Roy I've had a look at the lower arm bushes. The kingpin and trunions are quite new but these bushes have never been touched what's my best way to test for wear and what's the best removal procedure
Thanks ronnie

The only way is to strip them out - so may as well get the polyurethane spares 'in stock' before you start. Hopefully won't need a pin. Take the load of the torsion bar with a jack on the rear part of the lower arm - then remove the front part of the arm - disengage the lower trunnion and wedge it up/out of the way. Then lower the jack so unloading the torsion bar. Loosen the nut holding the eye bolt and run it to end of thread - but don't remove just yet. Knock the arm back on the T bar until it clears the 'spigot' (item 75 here http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewP ... exID=17091 ) but not so far it comes off the splines......and then remove the eyebolt from the chassis and inspect chassis/bolt/bushes/pin... Renew parts as necessary. And as they say - re-assembly is the reverse of the above.

Fantastic advice ,better than any manual on the market. Bushes on order
Thanks

hi , when im removing the inner lower arm bushes will i be dismantling ther torsion bar to if so will the torsion bar not be solid on the lower arm ????

As listed above - you will release the compression in the T bar - and then slide the rear arm along the splines. Could be an idea to run a wire brush over the splines NOW and spray them liberally with a release fluid - or just some diesel ......

I've already scrubbed everything with a wire brush and drenched in w d 40 and full set of bushes on there way question is when I remove lower arm from t bar I assume it has to go on the exact same spline otherwise the suspension will be lop sided

WD40 is not a release oil - but better than nothing. As above - don't knock it back so far that it comes off the splines ! Just enough to clear the spigot - and NO more.

What would you use as a release oil ???

PlusGas or similar. Some make their own - mix of acetone (or even just paraffin) and diesel .

I followed your instructions to a T bmc . 1st class and well worth it the two inner bushes were shot with signs of metal to metal on the pin thanks again for all your help. Just have to rebuild now but pretty sure the noise will be gone

Great success ! You should put some 'white grease' on the poly bushes as you re-assemble.