Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi guys,

Im going to brush waxoyl (clear) behind the rear door inserts, (2 door saloon) on the metal panel, under the rear windows. I am doing this as I had a rear side window leak, and some water has trickled down behind the door insert, so dont want it to rust. There is some rust at the bottom of this panel.

Ive heard so many different things about waxoyl, and dont know what to believe!

I have used the black waxoyl for under the car, but have never waxoyl inside a vehicle before. On the hammerite website is says waxoyl kills old rust, I imagine it does this by preventing futher water and oxgen getting to it?

Theres not enough rust to do any major work, such as cutting out metal etc, so just want to halt it from getting worse.
As the rear side window seal has now been replaced, no futher water is going to get to this panel. Therefore, the waxoyl isnt going to be washed away.

Any thoughts?

" As the rear side window seal has now been replaced, no futher water is going to get to this panel. "
Ahh - such faith! Treat any surface rust with phosphoric acid before lashing on the waxoyl..........

Hi,
Hammerite underbody seal with added waxoil is great for under the car but I find their waxoil itself a bit 'gloopy' and it doesn't seem to get into the nooks and crannys very well.
Dinitrol is much better, though you may need to order online , as I haven't seen it on the shelf.
I've included some links below.
I've also included one for their 'Converust', which works in just the same way as 'Kurust' but is a spray on version, quite handy in places. (I've also added one for the brush on version as well.)
Best wishes,
Mike.

http://www.frost.co.uk/dinitrol-ml-cavi ... 500ml.html
http://www.frost.co.uk/extension-hose-60cm.html
http://www.frost.co.uk/dinitrol-converu ... rosol.html
http://www.frost.co.uk/dinitrol-converust-rc800.html

bmcecosse wrote:" As the rear side window seal has now been replaced, no futher water is going to get to this panel. "
Ahh - such faith! Treat any surface rust with phosphoric acid before lashing on the waxoyl..........

LOL. I know, I do hope this works! Where would I get phosphoric acid from? I've read its quite hard to use, and that you need to make sure you get it all of the metal after etc.

I was just hoping to brush some waxoyl on bits of the rust, as it claims it kills it?

Anyone else have any other suggestions about waxoyl directly over interior rust?

I used Rustbuster Fe-123 rust converter on all rust on my car, it was tested and recommended by Practical Classics in their 2011 tests getting "BEST IN TEST" of all rust converters scoring 10/10

this is availble on ebay search for "Rustbuster"

Buy it in Kurust and various other makes..... Paint on - leave to dry. Job done. Thin the waxoyl slightly with white spirit - put it in a spray bottle and warm it up in a bucket of boiling (or at least v hot) water and spray away into all the dark spaces..... Best done outdoors on a warm day. Prepare to catch the drips........ The Frost products are not inexpensive..........

bmcecosse wrote:Buy it in Kurust and various other makes..... Paint on - leave to dry. Job done. Thin the waxoyl slightly with white spirit - put it in a spray bottle and warm it up in a bucket of boiling (or at least v hot) water and spray away into all the dark spaces..... Best done outdoors on a warm day. Prepare to catch the drips........ The Frost products are not inexpensive..........

OK, got it. What would happen to metal painted with Kurust that isnt rusty. I ask this because where the rust is is quite difficult to see, so may get in on metal that aint rusty,

Jenolite contains acid, which is the only way to get rid of rust after scraping and wire brushing, apart from cutting it out! If you use these 'converters' straight over rust you only need to scrape the surface and you find the rust again. It's a nice thought to be able to relax and paint it away but if you mean business it's a horrible job! I've found waxoyl to be fine, I've also used a 3m product from a can, it's a brownish colour and leaves a fine film over the cleaned metal plus it creeps into hard to get at places.

I'm with Jagnut66, I agree FROST isn't cheap, but I seem to get the results I'm after with their products.

I used this to neutralise:
http://www.frost.co.uk/review/product/l ... tegory/50/

Buy some good quality overalls!!!
Then like BMC, warmed up the the waxoyl by plonking the can into a bucket of boiling water (lid released).

Then poured the wax into a parafin sprayer.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... C-paraffin

Warmed this up again, so wax is fluid.

Then sprayed into cavities and watched it flow!

Then take in the smell.

Virtually all the products are based on phosphoric acid - so just buy whatever is the best deal at the time. Does no harm on non-rusty metal - is there any ?? And then plaster with wax treatment of your choice. Thin waxoyl sprays well enough from a hand spray bottle - steal a near empty one from under the kitchen sink........but of course an air fed sprayer gets much more distance for spraying up inside chassis legs.

bmcecosse wrote:Virtually all the products are based on phosphoric acid - so just buy whatever is the best deal at the time. Does no harm on non-rusty metal - is there any ?? And then plaster with wax treatment of your choice. Thin waxoyl sprays well enough from a hand spray bottle - steal a near empty one from under the kitchen sink........but of course an air fed sprayer gets much more distance for spraying up inside chassis legs.

Yes, theres more clear metal than rust. Rust is in sporodic places, so was just going to coat the whole panel.

I think I may brush waxoyl on rather than spray it on though, so its not as messy!

Ah but the srary gets in to all the little nooks and crannies!